Starter motor question

[SplendiferousII]

No I don't think its any of the above.

The motor is new. (but had same prob with old unit just before I changed it)

The Battery is also new. The Big Cables are just fine and dandy.

The earth cable is good. The starter motor is now cleaned and even the bolts are fitted with seratted washers.

So the system is good.

This only occurs when the Glow Plug light comes on - on cold start up/

When the engine is warm and the glow plug light no longer comes on with the ignition (still don't know how the glow plugs know the engine is warm) the starter goes first time every time.

When I turn the key to starter I get a Click (not a clunk) and then nothing.

But then every now and then the starter will suddenly fire into life - there is often a split second delay.

I am pretty convinced it has something to do with the Pre Heat (glow Plug) system.

[airhead]

I had this exact same problem with my van and it was an earth problem.

[kevtherev]

Is the gearbox earth strap in good order?

this happened to me and it was a combination of a sticky solenoid and the gearbox earth strap

[edoh]

I've got this print out from another site -
if you can make use of it -


Starting Motor Trouble Checking

Symptom
Cause Remedy
Starting motor does not turn when ignition key is being turned
Switch on the lamps when testing a - Lights do not burn. Loose cables or poor ground connection. Battery run down a - Check battery cables and connections. Test voltage of battery
b - Lights go out when operating the ignition switch. Insufficient current due to loose connections or corroded terminals
b - Clean battery terminals and cable clamps, clean and tighten connections between battery starting motor and ground
c - Lights go dim when operating the ignition switch. Battery run down c - Charge battery

d - Lights stay bright when operating the ignition switch. Make a jumper contact between terminals 30 and 50 at starting motor: lf the starting motor operates, there is an open circuit in cable 50 to ignition switch, or in cable 30 to lighting switch, or the ignition switch is defective d - Eliminate open circuits, replace defective parts
e - Lights stay bright and plunger in solenoid switch is pulled when operating the starter.
Disconnect battery cable from terminal 30 at starting motor and connect it to terminal stud of connector (contact blade). If the starting motor operates, the contacts of the solenoid switch are worn or dirty
e - Replace solenoid switch



Starting motor does not operate when battery cable is directly connected with terminal stud of connector (contact) blade a - Brushes sticking

b - Brushes worn

c - Weak spring tension.
Brushes do not make contact

d - Commutator dirty

e - Commutator rough, pitted, or burned

f - Armature or Field coils defective
a - Clean brushes and guides of brush holders

b - Replace brushes

c - Replace springs


d - Clean commutator

e - Recondition starting motor

f - Overhaul starting motor

Sluggish or slow action of the starting motor a - Battery run down

b -Insufficient current flow due to loose or corroded connections

c -Brushes sticking

d - Brushes worn

e - Commutator dirty

f - Commutator rough, pitted, or burned

g - Armature or Field coils defective
a - Charge battery

b - Clean battery terminals and cable clamps, tighten connections

c - Clean brushes and guides of brush holders

d - Replace brushes

e - Clean commutator

f - Recondition starting motor

g - Overhaul starting motor

Starting motor is heard to operate, but cranks engine erratically or not at all a - Drive pinion defective

b - Flywheel gear ring defective
a - Replace drive pinion

b - Replace flywheel or re-machine gear ring

Drive pinion does not move out of mesh a - Drive pinion or armature shaft dirty or damaged

b - Solenoid switch defective
a -Overhaul starting motor


b - Replace solenoid switch

[VWCamperfan]

Take starter motor off and clean the armature shaft that the pinion gear slides along to engage with the flywheel. Thinners etc. should do the job or WD40 if you have no thinners. Lightly oil and replace starter motor onto bellhousing.
What could be happening is this:- You turn the key which supplies power to the solenoid on the side of the starter. This pulls an electromagnetic switch into contact with the terminals from the battery and into the starter, making a circuit and spinning your motor BUT before the contacts close, an actuating arm has to move the pinion gear onto the flywheel, hence the term 'pre-engage'. If for some reason eg. a sticky armature shaft, were to prevent the pinion gear from moving, the solenoid contacts will not be closed and the motor will not turn.
The reason it is ok when warm is quite simply because whatever is causing the sticking is now warm and allows the mechanism to move freely as cold things tend to bind a bit more.
So, to recap:- Take off starter and clean the shaft where the gear slides along to engage the flywheel.

Ps. Bliidy hope this works, took me long enough to type it all!

[SplendiferousII]

A quick update on my Starter Saga. And learning to live with it. Will take a serious look at the wiring within the engine compartment black box when I get time.

Ok as you might have read. I only get this problem when the engine is cold and only when the Heater coils (glow plugs) light has been on. When the engine is warm and the heater coils does not come on (still a big mystery how it knows) its fine and will spin up first time every time.

Starting procedure in mornings.

Turn key to heater coils, when light goes out engage starter - nothing other than a click from rear of van.

Turn key off and back on to heater coils, light goes out engage starter, nothing other than usual click - but wait a few seconds and wey hey its off.

Things which effect this. Wipers being on and the heater coil light flashes on off as do the indicators, but the light sequences with these. If these occur the van not start.

[Gunslinger]

If you replaced the starter motor then you must have taken off and examined the switch terminal on the solenoid.
This sounds like it could be a faulty ignition switch, which are very common, £8.51 at GSF about 40mins to change.
Martin

Mine had similar symptoms and proved to be a faulty ignition switch. Quite common apparently !

[ermie571]

Mine is doing sommat similar.....lights on dash but nothing else....then it will suddenly kick in. But petrol motor, not diesel

Been told to get a new ignition switch.

Em
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