Front wheel bearing replacement

[HarryMann]

to what, the punch?
A large hammer is often more controllable as you don't have to go swinging it about, just drop it on the drift.
Ever seen a builder crazily swinging a claw hammer to hit bolster chisel when knocking down some brickwork? Guaranteed he'll hit his hand sooner or later and make hard work of it compared to a club hammer, the correct tool...

You are hitting very hard steel race case, but not smashing seven barrels out of it, just dropping the hammer in a controlled way to progressively and alternately drive opposite sides into a housing or onto a shaft... but if it all worries you get it pressed in by a garage fitter who isn't a rookie and has done it a 100 times or more, and has a good assortment of spacers and tubes and rings at hand.

[skell]

I did some for the first time ever recently, just take your time and tap the rings in gradually, with alternate hits 180degrees apart, was easier than I thought it would be.

[Mr Bean]

So what are you supposed to do with the hammer and punch?

Tap the bearing in? - i would have thought hitting a small punch with a big hammer would do some damage...

Ringo[/quote]
OK then put a cut in the old bearing outer/inner with a 1.5mm disc (50p at QD) in an angle grinder (£16 at B & Q) don't forget safety glasses and for gords sake don't wear latex gloves! Then you can use them as a drift to prevent damaging the new bearing. Plus you can get them off afterwqards. The old - drift - bearings that is It is my firm belief that short term bearing failure is caused by overtightening. Any old timers agree?
Cheers
ken

[Red Westie]

Drifting out the old races by using the groves provided in side the housing. These groves expose part of the wider edge of the race exactly for this reason. Hold the punch tightly to the side and hit a couple of times, keep swapping side to side so race punches out evenly.
Same proceedure for inner and outer.
Putting the new races in by starting off with the hammer, tap evenly around the race. Typically the race will "cock" up one side but this is when you 'feel your way' you won't damage the race with the hammer, honest.
One the race has started, use the punch, this is where you need to be a little careful but as long as you hold it square and close to it's end, a good clean punch (one that isn't peened over) shouldn't slip.
Keep hitting one side then the other until the 'TONE' changes, indicating that the race is all the way to the shoulder, same again with the second race.
Pack the new bearings with quality multipurpose LM (bearing) grease by dragging the grease with two fingers into the roller ends (eventually the grease comes out the other side and it is then packed)
Fit the larger inner bearing into the housing packing the hub with grease around the walls (do not over pack, allow for grease expansion)
Knock the inner seal into place with the flat of the hammer until it is parallel with the housing (does not need to be knocked inwards)
Adjusting taper rollers by mildly loading the bearings and spinning to settle them in, then take the nut back until it just takes out the play (you have to feel the point that the bearing starts to load) then back the nut off a whisker to allow for expansion (again this is another moment where instinct and experience come in to play) knock the tab in to lock the nut.
You should feel the slightest amount of free play in the bearing once the wheel is refitted and in fact it might help to leave this adjustment until the wheels are back on .
I know I've missed the speedo cable and caliper etc fit in reverse observing manufacturers torque settings and thread lock if required.
Martin

[ringo]

Thanks Martin - thats very helpful.

Ringo

[airhead]

Sorry to resurrect this thread... Whats the procedure for getting the disc off? Obviously the brake caliper has to come off. The question I have is, the nut in the centre under the grease cap has a sort of peined sleeve in front of it. Does this just pull off or how does it come off? Then removing the nut... is there a roll pin or what? Or does the peined sleeve stop it from coming loose? If somebody could explain this to me in detail Id be eternally grateful.

[Grun]

Or does the peined sleeve stop it from coming loose?

Presaxctly.
You just have to use a little punch, or sommat, to tap the peened bit up clear of the groove in the stub axle (and the thread) and then remove the nut.
You can only peen the nut three times total it says 'ere. (thats more than twice ain't it?) Then you will need a new nut.

I prefer the split nuts which are clamped up by a socket headed 'cap screw' on my Bay, but I suppose this day and age some numpty would forget to torque up the cap screw to clamp the nuts, hence the peening bit on the 25.
It is called progress apparently.

Mike