Drive feel (need an experienced view as new to this)
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Getting used to the van is a worrying time, as you think that something is bound to go wrong. Getting into fourth should be fairly easy, the motorway is a good place to access engine power, should be able to make ground on lorries on all but the steepest motorway hills. But you wont be going much faster. Keeping the engine in the power is also necessary, try to keep your speed, as dropping below 60 can mean running out of puff, and having to think about 3rd.
On the flat 4th will rule, on winding hilly roads you will see alot of 3rd.
The buses are very affected by headwinds, and gusts of wind can feel like the engine losing power. Having a strong tail wind makes them feel turdbo charged.
On the flat 4th will rule, on winding hilly roads you will see alot of 3rd.
The buses are very affected by headwinds, and gusts of wind can feel like the engine losing power. Having a strong tail wind makes them feel turdbo charged.
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
Mmmm good fun eh, Ive got five gears...brummmmm its still a bit faster than a canal barge....
Welcome to snailsville.
Most go & fit a sooper -dooper faster engine..but I like the slow pace.
I,ve only got a 16oo & I can just manage to stay in the middle lane most of the time, except on the longgg motorway hills..
Kev the under revved..

Welcome to snailsville.
Most go & fit a sooper -dooper faster engine..but I like the slow pace.
I,ve only got a 16oo & I can just manage to stay in the middle lane most of the time, except on the longgg motorway hills..
Kev the under revved..

- phade
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Other things to check out for are the following:-
- Chaffed, split or cracked fuel, vacuum and carburettors balancing hoses
- Blocked fuel filter (usually just after the fuel tank)
- Dirt inside the carburettors (usually caused by a very old fuel filter)
A very simple trick to remove and partial blockage (or dirt) from the carburettors is the following:-
- Remove the air filter unit completely
- Start up the engine
- Put one hand over one of the carburettors and rev the engine up and down, leaving a narrow gap for air to pass through. The vacuum on that carburettor will force any blockages out of the carburettor. If the engine begins to sound like a lawnmower on acceleration then one of your carburettors is blocked.
- Repeat this process for the other carburettor
- Refit the air filter unit.
I think the slight "spurts" in power could be perished fuel hoses or a very slight blockage inside one of the carburettors.
As for slowly accelerating in 4th gear, that's pretty normal for these engines. Think about it, 67 bhp and at least 2 tonnes of weight = power to weight ratio of 33 bhp per tonne or less.
I hope this helps.
- Chaffed, split or cracked fuel, vacuum and carburettors balancing hoses
- Blocked fuel filter (usually just after the fuel tank)
- Dirt inside the carburettors (usually caused by a very old fuel filter)
A very simple trick to remove and partial blockage (or dirt) from the carburettors is the following:-
- Remove the air filter unit completely
- Start up the engine
- Put one hand over one of the carburettors and rev the engine up and down, leaving a narrow gap for air to pass through. The vacuum on that carburettor will force any blockages out of the carburettor. If the engine begins to sound like a lawnmower on acceleration then one of your carburettors is blocked.
- Repeat this process for the other carburettor
- Refit the air filter unit.
I think the slight "spurts" in power could be perished fuel hoses or a very slight blockage inside one of the carburettors.
As for slowly accelerating in 4th gear, that's pretty normal for these engines. Think about it, 67 bhp and at least 2 tonnes of weight = power to weight ratio of 33 bhp per tonne or less.
I hope this helps.
- The_blue
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fairwynds wrote:We gained about 20% extra power by putting in the correct spark plugs....
Thats interesting, coz I recently went for those multi electrode jobbies, and Im sure van was happier on singles? Any thoughts?[/quote]
Just standard GSF ones.
Our old plugs had about 10mm thread. The new ones have loads more.
Cured the slugish off the lights start, cured the cold tick over and can now get up the local hill in 4th not 3rd! (40mhp uphill constant)
Joined club Talbot!
- phade
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Hiya Fingle,
I don't think you really need 2 fuel filters, you should only need one of them (ideally straight after the fuel tank). Having 2 fuel filters may be restricting fuel flow slightly.
It seems like from what you mentioned that the fuel hoses may be ok, but it would definately be a very good idea to check them anyway just in case !!. It's especially important on these vans since if there is a fuel leak, a fire can break out and you won't even know about it !!
My van seems to be fine except when it's going up hills and only need third when it starts to drop below 30-40 mph. The main thing is not to thrash these engines otherwise it could cost you a new engine in the long run and it will save you fuel in the long run too. These vans take an age to accelerate due to the weight.
The correct spark plugs for these vans (although there are other manufacturer's alternatives) is Bosch W8CC. I will have to look up my Haynes manual to see what they have specified (I think they were Champion spark plugs from what I remember).
It's also important to use the correct engine oil grade too, which is different to any Aircooled Beetle engine. The oil grade for these vans is either 15W50 or 20W50 standard mineral oil. Do not use synthetic oil on these vans since it can weep past the pushrod tube seals and gaskets (this is what happened to my mexican beetle).
Happy Camping
I don't think you really need 2 fuel filters, you should only need one of them (ideally straight after the fuel tank). Having 2 fuel filters may be restricting fuel flow slightly.
It seems like from what you mentioned that the fuel hoses may be ok, but it would definately be a very good idea to check them anyway just in case !!. It's especially important on these vans since if there is a fuel leak, a fire can break out and you won't even know about it !!
My van seems to be fine except when it's going up hills and only need third when it starts to drop below 30-40 mph. The main thing is not to thrash these engines otherwise it could cost you a new engine in the long run and it will save you fuel in the long run too. These vans take an age to accelerate due to the weight.
The correct spark plugs for these vans (although there are other manufacturer's alternatives) is Bosch W8CC. I will have to look up my Haynes manual to see what they have specified (I think they were Champion spark plugs from what I remember).
It's also important to use the correct engine oil grade too, which is different to any Aircooled Beetle engine. The oil grade for these vans is either 15W50 or 20W50 standard mineral oil. Do not use synthetic oil on these vans since it can weep past the pushrod tube seals and gaskets (this is what happened to my mexican beetle).
Happy Camping

- jamesc76
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I would give it a really good service if i was you new oil and filter, plugs, air filter you might see a increase in performance then??? I hardy use 3rd on motorways but might be due to the fact i got 140 bhp in the back (twice wat you got) 

DJ at Dubdayz Summerfest
Now cutting about in an LT35 MWB
Now cutting about in an LT35 MWB
- kevtherev
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Re: Drive feel (need an experienced view as new to this)
Fingle wrote:Hi,
I have noticed that cruising it feels like there is extra power trying occasionally to burst through in tiny spurts. Could it be a carb issue, or am i just being paranoid about adjusting to a more zen like driving experience I have to get used to ?
it certainly is different to modern motors...
the spurts or even lurches happened to me.
I found a weak mixture and a few air leaks were the problem.
fixed the air leaks (vac hoses, vac brake hose, split carb gasket, choke pull down unit).
then took it to my local motter and put it on the gas analyser to set the mix
the readings tell you a lot about the engine... and it's health
high O2 means leaks (2+)
high HC means oil/fuel
high CO too rich (+2)
and while it's there check the timing is at 5deg BTDC
mine has a it's usability back in 4th now... but 10% hills kill it's speed
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)
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if its Aircooled your better off revving it than labouring it. more revs = more cooling air!!
labouring them is what kills em!! the 2000cc motor can take a bit of revving!!
on motorway hills anything below 50 smack it in third and floor it!!!
just make sure all your tinware and engine seal is there.

labouring them is what kills em!! the 2000cc motor can take a bit of revving!!
on motorway hills anything below 50 smack it in third and floor it!!!

just make sure all your tinware and engine seal is there.
