Dash removal (to re-spray it)

Post by **Cruz** » 14 Dec 2005, 23:23

How easy/hard is it to remove the dash from a T25?

It's a bit scratched and marked and could do with a nice respray, as well the previous owners have put one one those hideous plastic dash tidys on it so I'd like to blank the holes up that they so kandly drilled into the dash in order to fit said monstrosity. (damn butchers)

Post by **R0B** » 14 Dec 2005, 23:32

i think you will find most of us have one of these most hideous of things in our vans.where would we put all the crap they hold otherwise.as to dash removal. its a pain in the bottom to do...

hideous plastic dash tidys

Post by **guz** » 15 Dec 2005, 01:15

follow the HBOL.

remove dash pod, heater controls,
glovebox stuff, screws along 'screen,
all vents, i'm sure there's a bit more
but i've been in the pub since 7pm so
i'm struggling now TBH.

Post by **Ye Olde Syncrospares** » 15 Dec 2005, 08:55

steering wheel,ignition,wiper,indicator switches,then theirs 2 security heads that have to be removed before the dash is free,in and out in 4 hrs.

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 15 Dec 2005, 13:11

From http://www.vanagonauts.com/%5B80.10---8 ... &-R118.htm
link doesn't seem to be working for me at the moment though

Disconnect the battery: You will be working without the dash and with exposed “hot"| terminals so it is best to disconnect the ground connection. To do this move the passenger seat forward, remove the plate under the rear of the seat protecting the battery and loosed the ground connection. Pull the ground wire off the terminal and fasten it so that it does not flip back and touch the battery terminal again.

Instrument cluster removal: Pull the instrument panel off and remove all the wiring. There are 4 Phillips #2 screws holding the plastic tab of the instrument cluster. Be careful, these tabs can get brittle with age. They will break and shatter. Wiggle your hand behind the speedometer and unclip the spedo cable. Just squeeze the connector and it will come out. Next pull out the switches by pressing the tabs to release them from the cluster. The cluster should lift out and remove the big wire connector plug. This will provide you room to get under the dash board. Put the cluster in a safe place that you will not sit or lay other components on.

Vent lever removal: Release all the vent levers. If you pull on the blue and red rubber knobs they will work off the lever. You will be able to see the mounting nut after the instrument panel is removed. You may have to remove the front and rear heater fan switches as well. Also remove any auxiliary wiring on the dash that you may have added on.

Radio: Remove the radio - you are on your own here

Remove the Glove box: - press the retaining tabs and lower the box to the floor board. Slide it off its pivot. Be careful not to press the retaining tabs to much or too hard, they could be brittle and break.

Syncro dash plate: (Applies to SYNCRO Model) Remove the Syncro dash plate and Differential lock switch(es).

Steering column: Remove the two bolts holding the steering column to the dash frame. These are safety bolts without a head because it is meant to snap off when the bolts are torque at the factory. I used a pair of vise grips and was able to turn these bolts loose. I replaced them with normal bolts. I think they are a thread of 8x1.25 mm and 25 cm long. The steering column will drop to the driver's seat and that is ok and out of the way.

Dashboard attachment: Unbolt the dashboard - a. 6 or 8 #2 Philips head below the windshield b. 4 big bolts along the door jams. You will need to be able to open the doors wide enough to get your screwdriver/bolt driver in there

Dash removal: Ok the Dash should be loose and ready to pull off. a. Lift it up slowly and check what else is still wired and connected, like the cig lighter or AC switches, You will have to unplug all. b. I did it by myself but with an extra person it sure is easier to lift and pull the dash out one side or the other.

Post by **R0B** » 15 Dec 2005, 14:09

or cover it with fake fur.that will hide all the holes and scratches....

Post by **Cruz** » 15 Dec 2005, 14:42

Or leave it be

Post by **NOT ANOTHER LEAK** » 15 Dec 2005, 18:08

hey ive got said hideous monstrosity fitted to my dash

Post by **stwat** » 16 Dec 2005, 00:44

Or just mask everything off and spray it in the van(obviously removing the speedo pod, ect, ect.)

Stu

Post by **jedkk** » 16 Dec 2005, 19:35

Shaun, I'm looking to get one of those ' hideous monstrosity' dash tidy's do you still have it? Or did they butcher the dash and leave the tidy off?

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 16 Dec 2005, 20:51

make your own, bit of MDF three triangle brakets some anti slip matterial, job done I have a template for the brakets somewhere

Here : http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.gr ... 20tidy.jpg

Post by **Cruz** » 10 Feb 2006, 07:18

Would really like to spray over the dash with or without the dash tidy as It's pretty scratched

So what would people recommend?

Take the dash out to spray it or mask off and spray it in situ with a can of spray paint?

Post by **T'Onion** » 10 Feb 2006, 09:29

I've got a spare dash sitting in me garage doing nowt .. you can have it for £20 .. then spray it up to your little hearts content then fit it to ya van and sell ya old one on .. job done , van off the road for a morning .. no rushing around ... also bear in mind that the dash get quite hot so pick ya paint wisely...

Post by **Cruz** » 10 Feb 2006, 09:43

Cheers for the offer but I may as well remove mine and paint it than be stuck with a dash that I can't get rid of let alone store

So if the dash gets hots what paint is best?

Post by **ROBS T25** » 10 Feb 2006, 19:16

ive done mine with hammerite turned out ok tried the spray can at first no good at all, so just got a tin and brushed it on as long as you dont want to win any competitions then its fine looks well now