wheel nut problems

Post by **Ray** » 11 Jun 2008, 18:50

Thought I would change front bake pads tonight. One of the five wheel nuts would not budge, it was a bit rounded and after using a breaker bar and a 19mm socket it was more round. Tried banging on a 18mm but now more rounded. Ive got a set of rifled nut removers but only go up to 16mm. gave up now - left it to soak in wd40 - any other solutions -Heat? nut splitter? Its difficult to get anything on now. Will try again tomorrow or I will have to let the local garage do the pads!!

Post by **campervanman** » 11 Jun 2008, 19:54

Front wheels are held on by bolts, not nut and stud (normally)
Had same problem on rear on my 88 1.9 watercooled - twice!
Was able to chisel off with nice sharp chisel and club hammer. Had to replace one stud when thread was damaged. Do it with wheel on ground otherwise it might fall off jack. Afterwards went round all wheels and replaced slightly rounded nuts with new and put them on with a lick of copper grease

Post by **Ray** » 11 Jun 2008, 20:32

Syncro has nuts on front. Tried with club hammer and chisel - no luck yet, will attack it more tomorrow. thanks for the reply.

Post by **Plasticman** » 11 Jun 2008, 20:38

Whilst it wont help with the badly rounded one I would invest in a shoulder drive 19mm socket (under £5),

These drive of the flats of the nut/bolt so are not bothered by worn corners,
Mike

Post by **meggles** » 11 Jun 2008, 21:08

I would try an angle grinder and grind ALMOST to the thread and then use a sharp chisel across the the nut to split it. A gentle grip with mole grips should then do the job without damaging the thread. In fact, unscrewing will clean up the thread. (I know this works 'cos I did it last week on a mates van!)
Then follow metalmick8y's advice after checking all nuts and bolts for rounding and replacing as necessary.
Good Luck

Post by **mininut** » 11 Jun 2008, 22:45

Gotta be worth trying a bit of heat. Combined with Plusgas, (better than WD40), and maybe a slightly smaller A/F socket I'm sure it'd go

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 12 Jun 2008, 07:22

I would take to a tyre centre, they have the black flat shoulder sockets, and would prob hammer one on, and air tool the stubborn nut.
In my tool kit is a 1/2 inch 2 ft breaker bar with a 19mm black air tool socket. That will not slip.
In the past I have mashed up some rusted bolts, and ended up spot welding onto the sides of the nut, which heats it up, and gives a socket something to grip on.
simon

Post by **Ray** » 12 Jun 2008, 17:53

Got it off at last. Got a black impact type socket but too badly rounded, had to use angle grinder stud not too badly damaged but will probally replace it later. Pads didn't need replacing after all but I will replace any dodgy nuts and I've got the socket and breaker bar for the future. Thanks for the replys.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 12 Jun 2008, 19:33

Bloody tyre places with there air guns... I never let them do the nuts up with air.. I takle my torque wrench with me se to the correct torque (127ftlbs, but I generally use 100ftlbs, steel wheels) they pi$$ and moan a bit and think I must be a knob, but rather than them wranging the buggers up so I cant change them at the side of the road.. Alloys are worse too tight can damage them...

I always check em after 100-150 miles too (never had a loose one..)

Post by **Wavehead** » 13 Jun 2008, 11:36

Well done must be a great relief ... had a similar problem on my daughters car and ended up taking it to a garage who thankfully did not charge me for loosening the pesky nut.

I was about to change the flexible hose on my front brake but decided to defer it as the union nut was clearly not going to budge and dont want to get side tracked into having to replace the metal pipe (yet)!