Reving on its own Diesel.
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Reving on its own Diesel.
1.6T/D
I have now I believe correctly timed this in at 1mm TDC and cam timing is correct.
Starts very easily and ticks over very smooth and not too smokey.
BUT, when I rev it gently and a only a little bit it tends to take a long time for the revs to drop off.
If I rev it a bit harder it then sems to rev upwards on its own complete with a lot more smoke which is darker and the engine note changes and the revs do NOT drop at all. I can only stop it reving by switching off the engine.
It is a bit smokey from the rocker cover breather pipe but cannot say if it is better or worse than it should be.
I am now at a lost to what is wrong and any suggestions would be gratefully received.
Is it the timing?
Is the pump knacked ?
Is the engine knacked and its burning its own oil ?
please note I bought this as a non-runner/poor starter.
cheers
Trev
I have now I believe correctly timed this in at 1mm TDC and cam timing is correct.
Starts very easily and ticks over very smooth and not too smokey.
BUT, when I rev it gently and a only a little bit it tends to take a long time for the revs to drop off.
If I rev it a bit harder it then sems to rev upwards on its own complete with a lot more smoke which is darker and the engine note changes and the revs do NOT drop at all. I can only stop it reving by switching off the engine.
It is a bit smokey from the rocker cover breather pipe but cannot say if it is better or worse than it should be.
I am now at a lost to what is wrong and any suggestions would be gratefully received.
Is it the timing?
Is the pump knacked ?
Is the engine knacked and its burning its own oil ?
please note I bought this as a non-runner/poor starter.
cheers
Trev
try disconnecting the rocker breather and try the test again. If it no longer has then tendency to run away then you know you have an engine which is breathing badly resulting in too much oil entering the intake manifold. If it still runs on then perhaps the turbo is loosing oil into the intake manifold.
Steve
Steve
Steve,
the rocker cover pipe was disconnected any way as it doesn't fit my replacement rocker cover !!
So I to was thinking knacked turbo seals/piston ring probs.
I too thought it may be consuming/running on its own engine oil. however when I turn off the key it stops straight away which suggests this may not be the problem. But Im really not sure.
I was hoping to drive it for the first time ever this weekend--now not looking to good-- as I really dont know what to do or change now.
Perhaps time for a 1.9 1Y conversion ???
cheers
Trev
the rocker cover pipe was disconnected any way as it doesn't fit my replacement rocker cover !!
So I to was thinking knacked turbo seals/piston ring probs.
I too thought it may be consuming/running on its own engine oil. however when I turn off the key it stops straight away which suggests this may not be the problem. But Im really not sure.
I was hoping to drive it for the first time ever this weekend--now not looking to good-- as I really dont know what to do or change now.
Perhaps time for a 1.9 1Y conversion ???
cheers
Trev
Whn you 'rev it' - are you using the accelerator pedal or the arm on the pump? If the cable is worn then it can bind and so not allow the pump to return to ide as fasr as it should. Disconnect the cable at the pump and try reving the engine with just the pump lever. Does it snap back to idle when you release it? Steve
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How mcuh oil does it use? I'd have thought if it was running on its own oil it'd have significant consumption, so if you don't top it up much theres probubly not much wrong with it. Turbos can spit a small emount of oil into the manifold and it doesn't take much to make it look bad. If your just reving the engine with no load (stationry) the turbo isn't really going to be doing much anyway. Not sure if that'd make the seals more/less likely to leak though.
I notice on another thread your thinking of ditching the engine. Assuming it doesn't breath heavilly out the oil filler, overheat/spit out coolent or make death knocks I think its worth repairing as the main engine will be basicly fine. You'll only be looking at a turbo or injector pump, both are just bolted on - changing one of them for a good one will be cheeper and easyer than an engine conversion and should make a good engine again.
Could be wrong but my gut is if it sounds funny but still shuts down instantly its the pump. In cases I've herd of engines running on oil they needed to be stalled as there was enough oil around for them to run solely on that, though they sound really weard. A quick shutdown once the diesel stops doesn't surgest this.
I notice on another thread your thinking of ditching the engine. Assuming it doesn't breath heavilly out the oil filler, overheat/spit out coolent or make death knocks I think its worth repairing as the main engine will be basicly fine. You'll only be looking at a turbo or injector pump, both are just bolted on - changing one of them for a good one will be cheeper and easyer than an engine conversion and should make a good engine again.
Could be wrong but my gut is if it sounds funny but still shuts down instantly its the pump. In cases I've herd of engines running on oil they needed to be stalled as there was enough oil around for them to run solely on that, though they sound really weard. A quick shutdown once the diesel stops doesn't surgest this.
Glen Syncronaut: 113 - 1992 JX Syncro pannel van
Cheers for ideas,
Glen, I too thought you had to stall an engine running on its own oil !!!Never driven it so cant really comment of oil consumption.
Just an additional thought having looked at it again this afternoon when it eventually stopped raining!!!
On top of the pump is a metal cannister, bit like a mini brake servo. Rubber hose to inlet manifold. I assume a diaphram inside and connected to pump via a pushrod arrangement. What is this, what does it do ?
It appears to be very stiff and the pushrod jams against the side.
It does not move whatever the revs are doing.
I have it set against a screw stop, have now thought is this a tickover stop or a max revs stop ??
please help, dont really want to do engine swap unless I have to but equally dont want to buy bits for this engine if its knacked and replacement pump/turbo wont help.
cheers
Glen, I too thought you had to stall an engine running on its own oil !!!Never driven it so cant really comment of oil consumption.
Just an additional thought having looked at it again this afternoon when it eventually stopped raining!!!
On top of the pump is a metal cannister, bit like a mini brake servo. Rubber hose to inlet manifold. I assume a diaphram inside and connected to pump via a pushrod arrangement. What is this, what does it do ?
It appears to be very stiff and the pushrod jams against the side.
It does not move whatever the revs are doing.
I have it set against a screw stop, have now thought is this a tickover stop or a max revs stop ??
please help, dont really want to do engine swap unless I have to but equally dont want to buy bits for this engine if its knacked and replacement pump/turbo wont help.
cheers
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Do you mean this one
Thats for xtra fuel at higher revs.
On your problem I'm thinking more about piston rings........????????
BART
Do you mean this one

Thats for xtra fuel at higher revs.
On your problem I'm thinking more about piston rings........????????
BART
Simon,
Im refering to the metal can that sits horizontaly on top of at the back of the pump.
In its tick over position should the pushrod be pushed into the can or out of the can.
It does not seem to move at all by itself irrespective of the revs the engine is doing. It stays were ever I put it.
It is connected to the top of the inlet manifold by a small bore rubber pipe.
Is there a diapram/ piston type arrangement in this can ??
If its kancked would this give me my symptoms ??
The pushrod appears to be offset in the entry pipe into the can, and is jamming against this when the pushrod is pulled out ?? surely this cant be correct or am I pulling it out to much ??
DONT know what to do next ?
cheers
Im refering to the metal can that sits horizontaly on top of at the back of the pump.
In its tick over position should the pushrod be pushed into the can or out of the can.
It does not seem to move at all by itself irrespective of the revs the engine is doing. It stays were ever I put it.
It is connected to the top of the inlet manifold by a small bore rubber pipe.
Is there a diapram/ piston type arrangement in this can ??
If its kancked would this give me my symptoms ??
The pushrod appears to be offset in the entry pipe into the can, and is jamming against this when the pushrod is pulled out ?? surely this cant be correct or am I pulling it out to much ??
DONT know what to do next ?
cheers
-
- Trader
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- Trader
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: 08 Oct 2005, 19:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1
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- Contact:
- Syncro G
- Registered user
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 21 Mar 2007, 19:15
- 80-90 Mem No: 3988
- Location: Peak District
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The LDA is the thing in this picture with the 4 injector running over the link rod just rearward of it. It does a simular job on other diesels like the one De Konjel shows but as you can see the proper JX van LDA above is an unusual shape. In order to get it to do anything you need to get the turbo to boost up which won't really happen free reving the engine - you'll need to make the engine do some work so that means driving. Just because an engine revs doesn't mean it is/will produice full power, it'll be nowhere near.
The LDA is the thing in this picture with the 4 injector running over the link rod just rearward of it. It does a simular job on other diesels like the one De Konjel shows but as you can see the proper JX van LDA above is an unusual shape. In order to get it to do anything you need to get the turbo to boost up which won't really happen free reving the engine - you'll need to make the engine do some work so that means driving. Just because an engine revs doesn't mean it is/will produice full power, it'll be nowhere near.
Glen Syncronaut: 113 - 1992 JX Syncro pannel van