new owner

Post by **High Peaker** » 16 May 2008, 16:35

Jason,
I installed Noisekiller matting under my cab carpet, as being a more modest conversion it just had plastic matting on to the (wet and rusty) floor - what a difference it made!
They are in Oldham, so not far from you.
It is quite pricey (I recall about £70 for a full sheet), but it did full cab and engine deck.
Still absorbs water though through the edges, so I must get my windscreen seals sorted as well.
Good luck!

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 18 May 2008, 07:46

foxbase wrote: Okay after talking to a mate at work it appears the underlay I've been going on about is actually sound insulation. It's pretty rotten in my camper and I wondered about replacing it? Do they still produce this for the T25. I've looked on JustKampers but nothing there. Failing that, what are my options for halting the further spread of the rust that has occurred in the foot wells?

Looks like sound insulation to me as well. I recently lifted the rubber cab mat in our van and it didn't have any sound insulation down there, but there was a big puddle of water on the driver's side!

Windsreen leaks are a common problem on these vans apparently, as are leaks from around the aerial and windscreen washerjets etc.

There was a previous thread on here by irishkeet about insulating his van. iirc there is discussion in there about different sound proofing materials which might be useful:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... ht=ongoing

As for dealing with the rust, it's a case of rubbing it down to remove any loose rust and loose paint, treating it with a rust treatment remedy (I'd recommend Vactan) and then paint over it again. If you're doing the cab floor there's probably no need to paint over it again though, vactan reacts with the rust and dries quickly. The rusty spots go black in colour and look like they've been varnished or enamelled. Vactan is bliddy great stuff and is available on ebay. A small amount goes a long way. Once you've painted it on, clean your brush in warm water, it washes out of brushes very easily.

For more info about the joy of Vactan, have a look here:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18751

For rubbing down the cab floor, because it's an uneven surface I'd suggest a wire brush (or wire brush attachment in a power drill), emery cloth or one of these (because they're great for getting into awkward little corners):

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... Clarke.htm

N.B. sparks may fly when doing this so wear goggles etc and protect your upholstery with old towels etc!

Tony

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 18 May 2008, 07:58

As for those cracks in your photos . . . on the driver's side of our cab floor there's what looks like a layer of rubber stuck to the floor. I think that's what's cracking in your photos. I'm planning to remove the rubber area completely because it's breaking down and I can't see what condition the metal floor is in, underneath the rubber. Once the rubber is up I'll treat any rust that is there and breath a sigh of relief if there's no rusty holes hiding under there!

Tony

Post by **foxbase** » 18 May 2008, 23:28

Thanks Tony, High Peaker.

Having left the carpet/sound deadening material up for a couple of nights it seems everything has completely dried out. I guess I'll have to wait and see if the water returns.

Planning on my first adventure this coming bank holiday - still unsure about a couple of things though! That heater - the ebber-thingy. What's that run off? The battery? I'm sure the fella I got it off said it ran off petrol????

Also, with the bank holiday almost here I may of left it late for getting a site with a hook up! Will the LPG see me all weekend? I can only use the electricity plug when hooked up right?

Also, cleaning the water storage tank out - I picked up some Puri Sol which says to add to fresh water in the tank, leave for 2- 12 hours and then pump out through the tap - is this what others do? What are your recommendations?

Err... sure I'll think of something else before the week is out! Stand by!

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 19 May 2008, 06:19

foxbase wrote:That heater - the ebber-thingy. What's that run off? The battery? I'm sure the fella I got it off said it ran off petrol????

Will the LPG see me all weekend? I can only use the electricity plug when hooked up right?

Also, cleaning the water storage tank out - I picked up some Puri Sol which says to add to fresh water in the tank, leave for 2- 12 hours and then pump out through the tap - is this what others do? What are your recommendations?

Don't have one, but as far as I know ebers run off diesel. Battery probably powers the ignition side of it though.

Depends how much lpg you've got in the tank! Are you talking about running your fridge on gas? Yes, sockets only work when connected to 240V electricity.

Cleaning the water tank - following the instructions is good. Rinse it through thoroughly afterwards.

Hope you have a good weekend. Finding a site pitch on a bank holiday weekend could be difficult by now. Head for Volksfling instead!

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27312

Tony

Post by **kathyshack** » 19 May 2008, 07:37

i think some ebbers also run off petrol too, so best to check first.

Post by **marc123** » 20 May 2008, 15:59

helllo all on the thread someone mentions you can't drive down the road with the fridge on lpg is this right if so does this mean i have to shut off the lpg valve in the cupboard before i set off down the road .

Post by **foxbase** » 20 May 2008, 22:42

Hey Marc123,

Sorry for storming your thread once again!

The fella I got mine off said he used to do it but sort of said you shouldn't.

I've taken it as read that when driving the leisure battery takes over powering the fridge. When arrived at destination switch to either lpg or hook up. I'm very new to all this so will gladly stand corrected

Oh and yeah I guess switch gas off at mains in cupboard and at the tank itself under the van.

Post by **Mudlark** » 20 May 2008, 23:44

Dont run fridge on lpg until set up on your campsite; flames blow out when driving, gas has a habit of doing bad things if not treated right. It also damages the fridge cause the air thats whirling about as you drive along causes the flame to burn wrong and cause a build up of soot which may stop your igniter working.

12v when driving; lpg when camping, unless you have a hook up in which case 240v.

and at least turn the gas off at the main valve in the cupboard (yellow in mine) when driving.

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 21 May 2008, 04:33

foxbase wrote: I've taken it as read that when driving the leisure battery takes over powering the fridge.

As far as I understand it, it's the alternator that powers the fridge whilst driving, not either of the batteries . . . and that only happens if you press the switch (to the battery position!)

it doesn't happen automatically (on an Autosleeper anyway).

Tony

Post by **marc123** » 21 May 2008, 16:56

cheers for that fellas another question for you all what is the black box under the rear seat in the van for it has a switch on it and i don't know whether it is on or not or whether i need it on or not thanks again for your advice

Post by **Mudlark** » 21 May 2008, 23:46

I have no switch under my seat....... put up a picture or tell us what its wired up to?

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