Am starting to consider changing the oil cooler for a bigger one. is there much gain in doing this,is it simply bolting on a bigger unit?
Or are there better ways of bringing the temp down.
cheers
Dave
cooling a 2ltr Aircooled
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cooling a 2ltr Aircooled
anyone got suggestions on the best way of further cooling the engine of my 2ltr Aircooled.
Am starting to consider changing the oil cooler for a bigger one. is there much gain in doing this,is it simply bolting on a bigger unit?
Or are there better ways of bringing the temp down.
cheers
Dave
Am starting to consider changing the oil cooler for a bigger one. is there much gain in doing this,is it simply bolting on a bigger unit?
Or are there better ways of bringing the temp down.
cheers
Dave
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steve8090
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Dave
Are you having cooling problems? if so then you really need to look at the current setup you have, tinware in good condition, thermostat working? if not then flaps in max cooling position? etc etc, you know what I'm saying.
As for extra oil cooling I've done this two ways, the original oil cooler is integral to he engine and cooling housing but you can either put a sandwich plate between the oil filter and the engine case that will run a twin take off to an external oil cooler or you can change the oil pump to a full flow pump such as the gene berg or bugpack pumps again an external cooler can be fixed, both have worked very well, the full flow pump was used in a couple of bugs for customers I built were the tinware was scapped and the sandwich plate used on a "hotted up" 2.1 overbored type 4 motor, if you are staying as standard then there really is no further need to add extra cooling unless one of the standard systems is not functioning properly.
Are you having cooling problems? if so then you really need to look at the current setup you have, tinware in good condition, thermostat working? if not then flaps in max cooling position? etc etc, you know what I'm saying.
As for extra oil cooling I've done this two ways, the original oil cooler is integral to he engine and cooling housing but you can either put a sandwich plate between the oil filter and the engine case that will run a twin take off to an external oil cooler or you can change the oil pump to a full flow pump such as the gene berg or bugpack pumps again an external cooler can be fixed, both have worked very well, the full flow pump was used in a couple of bugs for customers I built were the tinware was scapped and the sandwich plate used on a "hotted up" 2.1 overbored type 4 motor, if you are staying as standard then there really is no further need to add extra cooling unless one of the standard systems is not functioning properly.
Steve Shaw
Club80-90 Founder Member
Full Service, LPG conversions, Security and Camper Accessories.
see http://www.gasure.co.uk for full details.
01244 659740
Club80-90 Founder Member
Full Service, LPG conversions, Security and Camper Accessories.
see http://www.gasure.co.uk for full details.
01244 659740
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Anonymous
Why do you think that it needs extra cooling? Is it overheating?
Do you have a temperature guage on the engine so you can keep an eye on it? If not then I would suggest that this is the first thing I would spend money on before anything else.
If the engine IS overheating, try to look at why rather than just going around the problem. If the engine is in good condition (good compression etc) and you are asking more from it (driving it faster that it wants or a heavy right foot!?) then maybe a larger oil cooler would help... but this should only be looked into after you are sure everything else on and in the engine is in tip top condition including a good service.
MG
Do you have a temperature guage on the engine so you can keep an eye on it? If not then I would suggest that this is the first thing I would spend money on before anything else.
If the engine IS overheating, try to look at why rather than just going around the problem. If the engine is in good condition (good compression etc) and you are asking more from it (driving it faster that it wants or a heavy right foot!?) then maybe a larger oil cooler would help... but this should only be looked into after you are sure everything else on and in the engine is in tip top condition including a good service.
MG
Oil cooling
Thanks for the feed-back gents.
I suppose the reason I am now asking this type of question is that I have now fitted a oil temp gauge. The van is running very well and no sign of overheating.
However when im averaging say 65mph the van is running at just under 130 degrees! and I just thought are there ways of reducing that temp without the need to say reduce my speed.
Ive been told that I shouldn't allow the van to get any hotter than 130??
Regards
Dave
I suppose the reason I am now asking this type of question is that I have now fitted a oil temp gauge. The van is running very well and no sign of overheating.
However when im averaging say 65mph the van is running at just under 130 degrees! and I just thought are there ways of reducing that temp without the need to say reduce my speed.
Ive been told that I shouldn't allow the van to get any hotter than 130??
Regards
Dave
http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html
This should shed some light, it doesn't apply specifically to your T3, but it certainly covers the subject in depth.
Use the 3 links at the bottom that take you even further... the diagrams are useful, but the main thrust is 'complete and good close fitting tinware' but as Steve suggests, whilst being basic pre-requisites, these may not always be the easiest route to a solution.
This should shed some light, it doesn't apply specifically to your T3, but it certainly covers the subject in depth.
Use the 3 links at the bottom that take you even further... the diagrams are useful, but the main thrust is 'complete and good close fitting tinware' but as Steve suggests, whilst being basic pre-requisites, these may not always be the easiest route to a solution.
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
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Anonymous
130oC is a little hot. I'd certainley advise against going any faster if your van is reaching that kind of temp!
Have a good look around at the tinwear, thermostat and flaps and make sure that its all working as per factory.
If yes, does the engine use much oil? a compression test gives a good insight into just how well your engine is, or rather not!
If need a hand over the phone or are not a million miles away, give me a call.
MG
Have a good look around at the tinwear, thermostat and flaps and make sure that its all working as per factory.
If yes, does the engine use much oil? a compression test gives a good insight into just how well your engine is, or rather not!
If need a hand over the phone or are not a million miles away, give me a call.
MG
Michael is right I think, 130 C getting about as much as you'd want to see on an oil temp gauge.
Compression Test is here in our Wiki:-
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... 31d69c80cd
Compression Test is here in our Wiki:-
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... 31d69c80cd
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
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camper
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As i understand when the thermostat is closed the off side flap is closed and the nearside fully open.There is a pict in the haynes manual which shows this.Can you help me out a little please as i am replacing the flaps that was missing off mine.I would like to no what the flaps should look like when both are in the fully open position.I was thinking at how critical the postion of the flap should be for the air to be directed into the oil cooler.Thankssteve8090 wrote:Dave
Are you having cooling problems? if so then you really need to look at the current setup you have, tinware in good condition, thermostat working? if not then flaps in max cooling position? etc etc, you know what I'm saying.
As for extra oil cooling I've done this two ways, the original oil cooler is integral to he engine and cooling housing but you can either put a sandwich plate between the oil filter and the engine case that will run a twin take off to an external oil cooler or you can change the oil pump to a full flow pump such as the gene berg or bugpack pumps again an external cooler can be fixed, both have worked very well, the full flow pump was used in a couple of bugs for customers I built were the tinware was scapped and the sandwich plate used on a "hotted up" 2.1 overbored type 4 motor, if you are staying as standard then there really is no further need to add extra cooling unless one of the standard systems is not functioning properly.
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cumbriankeith
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Flaps
Have a look at this page. There is a pic which may help.
In the details for adjusting the stat cable it says:
"When the flaps are closed the 1/2 side flap is facing down and blocking the cylinders and when open it is level. If you rock the shaft you will hear the flap hitting the tin indicating it's at the top." (BTW "1/2" doesn't mean "half" it means the right-hand pair of cyls! But everyone knew that straight away but me, right?)
Lots of other good stuff on the site for these TypeIV engines, too.
In the details for adjusting the stat cable it says:
"When the flaps are closed the 1/2 side flap is facing down and blocking the cylinders and when open it is level. If you rock the shaft you will hear the flap hitting the tin indicating it's at the top." (BTW "1/2" doesn't mean "half" it means the right-hand pair of cyls! But everyone knew that straight away but me, right?)
Lots of other good stuff on the site for these TypeIV engines, too.
Keith
Membership number 38
Membership number 38
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camper
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I have obtained some second hand replacement flaps with the control rod the factory settings are not there .The tinware that sits on the oil cooler has turned edges that give me the impression it might be a close fit to the oil cooler flap under certain conditions ie the cranking action of the control rod.I set the flaps to match up with the pict in the link you kindly provided Keith .There are diffrences in the half way hight on the oil cooler flap from closed to both flaps fully open .
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camper
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Managed to get them to work i think correctly after fitting the fan housing back on the engine and its tinware.Thanks for the reply Keith.camper wrote:I have obtained some second hand replacement flaps with the control rod the factory settings are not there .The tinware that sits on the oil cooler has turned edges that give me the impression it might be a close fit to the oil cooler flap under certain conditions ie the cranking action of the control rod.I set the flaps to match up with the pict in the link you kindly provided Keith .There are diffrences in the half way hight on the oil cooler flap from closed to both flaps fully open .