Running up an air cool without tinware?

Post by **Taipan** » 15 May 2008, 16:00

Hi All
I want to refit my replacment engine in at the weekend. The engine is supposedly a recent recon but the guy i bought it from never actually ran it.

Anyway, so can I fit it in and run it up to see if its ok without fitting all the tinware on? I'm not talking about driving it about or anything, just running it to see if it sounds ok and clears itself and idles etc.

Many thanks.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 15 May 2008, 16:31

Yes of course, but NOT for long as the oil and heads will heat up pretty quick...

Post by **Rozzo** » 15 May 2008, 17:40

the tappets will rattle like a very rattly thing but don't let that worry you,,, it's perfectly normal and it usually takes a 20 mile drive to quieten mine when it's been standing.

Post by **splity61** » 15 May 2008, 22:10

Not adviseable to run the engine without the tin wear. They are designed to have sealed air cooling, i;e cold air goes in the top, passes over and through the cylinders and oil cooler then out underneath, over the exhaust and out under the bumper. I've lost count of the amount of bugs and buses I've seen with blown engines, due to the removal of various pieces of tin wear. Not forgetting the the foam/rubber tin wear to body seal. You will find it difficult to get an even idle, as without the tin wear, you have no thermostat or directing flaps. The engine will not warm evenly, which will make it lumpy. Have fun.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 15 May 2008, 22:23

He isnt driving it, just a quick test run to make sure it works before refitting the tinware etc.. it'll be fine for a mnute or so...

Post by **Rozzo** » 15 May 2008, 22:33

i always do the same with water cooled engines before i connect the hoses or owt,,, quick run up to mek sure i'm not wastin any time

Post by **splity61** » 15 May 2008, 23:54

the tin wear does not take that long to fit! an Aircooled engine is as rough as nails with out. True it will run, but how can you tell if it's 'right' if it ain't fitted properly??????????????????????????????????????????????

Post by **Rozzo** » 16 May 2008, 05:59

you can tell if it runs

Post by **Taipan** » 16 May 2008, 07:53

Hi All

I just want to run it up to make sure the ends aren't hanging out of it etc. Like Rozzo I've done this with water cooled engines with no water in beofre so I couldn't see a problem, but someone told me without airflow they develop a ocncentrated hotspot around the head and this is what leads them to valve problems etc. Perhaps the guy thought I was going to drive it around to test it?

Out of interest is there any tips for refitting the engine? It slid out so easily it was a very quick job, I'm hoping it will go back in as easily? But I recall watching the rebuilding of a camper on one of the sky problems where a garage had a pig of a job getting the engine back in?

Post by **toomanytoys** » 16 May 2008, 08:01

Clutch alignment tool.. that helps no end...
keepining it in line with the box too.. gentle gentle wiggle wiggle...

Oh and take a look at the clutch release arms.. the ends that push on the bearing pads should be nice and rounded (dress down with a file if not) Presume your fitting a new clutch..

Post by **Taipan** » 16 May 2008, 09:37

toomanytoys wrote:Clutch alignment tool.. that helps no end...
keepining it in line with the box too.. gentle gentle wiggle wiggle...

Oh and take a look at the clutch release arms.. the ends that push on the bearing pads should be nice and rounded (dress down with a file if not) Presume your fitting a new clutch..

Its supposed be a recently reconditioned gold engine (and the block is gold coloured) and the clutch does look brand new, so I'm going to leave it in situ and drop the engine in to see what happens....