Nuts!

[Blofeld]

I have and '86 'velle with 1.9 DG engine

2 issues

1. the gearbox filler nut is seized - any ideas about getting it out without melting the gearbox or rounding off the nut?

2. Drained the coolant and refilled with G12+ according to the tech section. now have an air lock that only appears about an hour after driving when the flashy low coolant light comes on and the gauge rockets then about 1/4 mile later reverts to normal. Occasionally the light flashes but the gauge stays where it is. the negine bleed just dumps water and the rad is throwing out water too but is a little foamy due to G12 i think.

Do I just repeat the bleeding instruction until i'm really really really bored?

[clartsonly]

it takes hours to do it properly, do make sure you do it properly otherwise your expansion tank might split (like mine did) and you might just think it is the cap (like I did) and spend 10 months with water leaking after 40 minutes of driving (like i did).

I think the important thing to remember is bleed it (20 minutes), leave it to cool (30 mins), bleed it (20 mins), leave it to cool (30 minutes) - repeat as required, but always undo the screw a tiny bit. I don';t think I have done mine properly yesterday, as I did not ramp it up but just kept letting the hot air out occasionally, also make sure whilst you are bleeding it that the cap is off but when it is cooling the cap is on.

I can help you with the oil drain plug, mine has half a spark plug in.

[toomanytoys]

Nah, dont leave the pressure cap off once its full.. make sure the top up tank is filled and the pressure cap is a gen VW one (the aftermarket ones are rubbish)

keep bleeding it when its hot (dont open the rad bleed screw until its up to temp... have the heater turned to hot too..

take it for a run and then do it again.. the bleed scre int he engine bay can be kept open for a bit.. this will help to purge the air out..

G12 isnt really required unless it s a new engine with lots of new cooling system parts, as G12 cost quite a bit.. but you have done it now!!

[Simon Baxter]

Bleeding a rad take 1/2 hour tops.
Don't listen to all that jacking it up nonsense, it's all a load of cobblers.
if you are getting air into the header tanks after 1/2 hour then i reckon your head gaskets knackered, does the level in the tank behind the numberplate keep rising?

[HarryMann]

If this is the hollow hex filler plug.. ?

Clean all around it with fine brass/wire brush and inside it.
Apply a drop of rust buster at the top so it runs down around the thread.
Leave for 20 mins or so.

Jack vehicle up a bit and block it/ axle stands & take a wheel off to give better access.
Apply another few drops, tap the hex plug tool well into it, connect up a 2' powerbar, arrange angle so you can put most of upper body weight on it, ensure tool is straight into plug, and lift yourself up on it and jerk.

A T-Bar might be better with weight on one end and someone ready to give other a hefty clout with a club-hammer as the weight comes on it. Even clouting socket end inwards as you pull can help.

I did once on an old box first use this method then it finally loosened with a T-bar...

Made a bit of mess of the plug, but they're only a few quid or can be cleaned up with a thread file

Or borrow a good battery impact wrench...

or a cheap one

Just get a good new hex plug socket that takes a 3/8" or 1/2" sq. drive preferably and don't give up too easily. the impact punch method may not appear to do much, but with perseverance nearly alwasy will start it moving. In this case you might as well allow the punch to crumple the hollow plug inwards, which will help break the seal (i.e. progressively muller it!) Scribe it before you start so you know when you're getting somewhere with it!