Engine DF & DG Carburettor Question

[shaz and dan's van]

My van would not idle today, took it to the garage & they cleaned the jet out, after messing about for another 30mins after that they said they thought the carburettor was the problem.

Now my engine code is a DF which means the following to some of you guys
1913cc
4/overhead valve
44kW - 60bhp DIN @ 3700RPM
carburettor - fixed jet

My question, is the carburettor the same for the DF, DG or any other engines if it comes to that, if not what adjustments are required if I can only get hold of a DG? Please don't make it too technical.

Are new ones available, or are we looking for a 2nd hand or reconditioned unit.

Thanks for any assistance.

[syncrodoug]

I think there is a rubber flange between carb and manifold - make sure that this hasn't split.

[toomanytoys]

If you get a DG carb then you will need the manifold as well as the y are different..
How many miles has it got on it? I doubt the carb really is a majr problem unless high mileage or a component has failed, that carb is pretty simple..

[shaz and dan's van]

Thanks for your replies.

In answer to the mileage, it reads 18,000km so could be 118K or 218K

[clartsonly]

if it is a DF the flange or rubber gasket is quite expensive and 10 times the size of the DG's one, you can tell if it is split as the carb will be quite wobbly on top of the engine, mine was split and wobbly but didn't fix my problem when I replaced it. also if you do change the carb over for a DG one you will also need to alter you water pipes as the DG one has water passing through it ( I think so anyway )

there are a multitude of thread on here related to idle problems, mine didn't idle for a whole year unless it had been driven 40 miles first, I think unless the garage worker is a vw t25 enthusiast he is giving you an opinion, but perhaps not acurate, maybe first you should do some of the normal things in order to try and solve it, which do not cost £300 for a single item.

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normal service including new cap and rotor arm ( i am tempted to say leads too but they are expensive and I have never changed mine ) this is always a good start, it may not solve your problem but at least you know it is not it

try disconnecting the cables from the idle stabikization unit and joining them together and checking to see if it idles

check the vacuum hoses for leaks (including the gasket for the carb, it is a fiddly job but quite easy to do and you can clean the carb with the petrol in the float chamber at the same time.

try clearing the jets yourself, by removing the air box cover revving the engine and putting you hand over the top of the carb to force petrol through the jets

clean the engine breather, and the engine breather pipe (if the engine breather pipe appears to be kinked instead of curved this may be adding to your problems, I am sure it was my problem as it was not allowing the condensed oil to return down the hose, I shoved a large spring down the pipe and really havn't looked back hardly ever cuts out now)


what I will say is that sometimes just starting it again on the driveway after doing something is not always a good test in these old engines, and I would take it for a spin around the block then back to the driveway.

[shaz and dan's van]

Thank you for your suggestions - replies in text below

if it is a DF the flange or rubber gasket is quite expensive and 10 times the size of the DG's one, you can tell if it is split as the carb will be quite wobbly on top of the engine, mine was split and wobbly but didn't fix my problem when I replaced it. also if you do change the carb over for a DG one you will also need to alter you water pipes as the DG one has water passing through it ( I think so anyway )
No wasn't wobbly at all

normal service including new cap and rotor arm ( i am tempted to say leads too but they are expensive and I have never changed mine ) this is always a good start, it may not solve your problem but at least you know it is not it
in the last 12 mths have replaced rotor arm, cap & leads. Plugs were replaced 6wks ago

try disconnecting the cables from the idle stabikization unit and joining them together and checking to see if it idles

check the vacuum hoses for leaks (including the gasket for the carb, it is a fiddly job but quite easy to do and you can clean the carb with the petrol in the float chamber at the same time.
They cleaned out the float chamber yesterday - which was a bit mucky

try clearing the jets yourself, by removing the air box cover revving the engine and putting you hand over the top of the carb to force petrol through the jets
They did this & also removed the jet & blew it through with a air hose

I took it out Tues & Thurs & it was running fine - I topped up with petrol Thurs & even went back to Tesco last night to ask if anyone else has had problems since.