
UPDATE ON P2. Loss of Power under load/Spark plug No 2 wet
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Re: Loss of Power under load/Spark plug on No 2 wet
Steve&Bev,
Have a look at the pictures in ...........
This thread
What Laurie is saying is that the end of your push rod is probably sitting on the (lower) edge of the tappet, and it should be in the centre recess.
Good luck.
Mike
Have a look at the pictures in ...........
This thread
What Laurie is saying is that the end of your push rod is probably sitting on the (lower) edge of the tappet, and it should be in the centre recess.
Good luck.
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
sounds to me like the tappets on that cylinder are set too tight, thus reducing compression.
apparently theres some mis-information in the haynes manual about how tight to set them,, back them off a bit and try again
it wont hurt if they rattle a bit but it will if they're tight and they are obviously opening as you're getting fuel in the cylinder but they may not be closing when warm.
apparently theres some mis-information in the haynes manual about how tight to set them,, back them off a bit and try again

LT owner and positively rattling around with the new found space
member 3339
member 3339
- kevtherev
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Re: Loss of Power under load/Spark plug on No 2 wet
Grun wrote:
I spent a great chunk of the middle of my life working in very remote parts of the World, and life (and vehicles) seem to have passed me by.
he he, I've never heard Exmoor being described as remote....bleak maybe
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)
Re: Loss of Power under load/Spark plug on No 2 wet
kevtherev
Wrote
'tidn bleak yer where I be to,
...........
but this was kinda remote, no beer either
and they used to record silly shade temperatures specially in summer......... shade
....... wazzzzzat?
[IMG:579:799]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s88/ ... 3Page1.jpg[/img]
Mike
Wrote
he he, I've never heard Exmoor being described as remote....bleak maybe
'tidn bleak yer where I be to,

but this was kinda remote, no beer either


[IMG:579:799]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s88/ ... 3Page1.jpg[/img]
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
- Steve P
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Right this is what has happened:
The nut that holds the rocker gear on has come off and has gone into the engine, thus why it's not running right on no. 2 cylinder.
We also need to replace two pushrods on that side because they are worn and should have been done ages ago apparently. We need to get 1 tappet adjusting screw, nut, and spring washers as well.
Need 'em PDQ - any ideas because of VanWest?
Steve
The nut that holds the rocker gear on has come off and has gone into the engine, thus why it's not running right on no. 2 cylinder.
We also need to replace two pushrods on that side because they are worn and should have been done ages ago apparently. We need to get 1 tappet adjusting screw, nut, and spring washers as well.
Need 'em PDQ - any ideas because of VanWest?
Steve
Tia is a 1980 2 litre air cooled viking roof
- Steve P
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- Joined: 27 Oct 2007, 18:48
- 80-90 Mem No: 4319
- Location: New Forest
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gsf couldn't help at all. Got the majority of what we needed from VW Heritage and the rest from Stateside Tuning.
Now waiting for it all to arrive, so hopefully we will be in the van on Friday.
Thanks for all of your help everyone. Oh before I forget, steve managed to get the bolt out of the engine, don't ask me where he found it, but he did.
Bev
Now waiting for it all to arrive, so hopefully we will be in the van on Friday.
Thanks for all of your help everyone. Oh before I forget, steve managed to get the bolt out of the engine, don't ask me where he found it, but he did.
Bev
Tia is a 1980 2 litre air cooled viking roof
- toomanytoys
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Not that hold the rocker gear on, you mean 1 of the 2 that holds the shaft with rockers on? now something could be a little bent..
as for the adjusters, set them so just touching when the valves and cam are fully closed, then add 1/4 (quarter) turn, you will need to turn the engine over to do each one really (flat ground second or therd gear and push the vehicle a little) the Haynes manual is wrong.. nip up the locknut whilst still holding the adjuster
Did you find the nut that has come off?
as for the adjusters, set them so just touching when the valves and cam are fully closed, then add 1/4 (quarter) turn, you will need to turn the engine over to do each one really (flat ground second or therd gear and push the vehicle a little) the Haynes manual is wrong.. nip up the locknut whilst still holding the adjuster
Did you find the nut that has come off?