UPDATE ON P2. Loss of Power under load/Spark plug No 2 wet

[Steve P]

1980 2 litre Aircooled

I've fixed the pushrod leak problem, but it all starts again.

Van pulls away brilliantly in first gear, goes through into second gear, changes into third. Seems to be ok as long as the revs are high but as soon as you change into fourth gear and make it work it seems to loose power and become lumpy.

Just taken for a drive (along with all the holidaymakers) across the Forest. It's ok driving along at say 40 mph in fourth gear, but if for instance you put your foot down at that speed it gets lumpy as though it is missing.

Any ideas on what I should check?

Have changed the fuel filter which did have some crap in it.

Scratching my head at the moment. Need to fix it before VanWest next week. Don't fancy that journey in it because I loose power on hills (where I didn't so much before).

Am thinking of trying another coil and new ht leads?? There seems to be a slight misfire.

Steve

[Grun]

Steve&Bev.
The usual suspect of misfire under load is ignition HT,... (I think. )

Because the pressure in the cylinders is higher, that pesky little spark tries to do everything it can to avoid having to jump the gap from the centre eletrode of the plugs to the earth electrodes.

If 'twere me I would do a little 'housekeeping' such as...... are the plugs good, clean, correct gap, outside of ceramic insulators clean and dry?
Same with the inside of the end caps of the plug leads, and are the leads clean 'n dry and routed away from places they may allow the spark to find a way to earth? Are the leads correctly connected to the distributor cap, and is the cap clean and dry inside and out, and so on........... all this before going to the trouble and expense of new bits.

Mike

[Steve P]

Hiya Grun, it's Bev this time.

He who must be obeyed (yeah right) put new plugs in it about 2000 miles ago. He's taken them all out today, all clean and dry apart from the plug that goes into no 2. It is wet and looks like it has unburnt petrol on it.

Has dried put back in, swapped over leads and tried again and it's still coming out wet.

There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust, engine doesn't sound any different to what it ever has done. It only started this problem i.e. loss of power on Wednesday and hasn't really been driven that much i.e. only about 30 miles a day over the last 2 days.

Bloooody thing, fix one thing for another to go!

[Steve P]

Just a thought. Do you think by doing the push rod tubes and seals which has made it oil tight there, the pressure is looking for somewhere to escape and it's done the valve guides in on that cylinder?

Is it an engine out job to fix or can we just take the head off that side?

Advice please because we really want this back on the road in time for VanWest. Daren't drive it down there like it is even though it's only an hour away.

Bev x

[Grun]

Steve&Bev,
Bev, I have been out sowing my veg. patch for the last couple of hours.
Now.......I am an old boy, and not all together up with some of the newer gadgets that have sprouted up in the last couple of decades or so, but....

If number 2 plug is wet (with petrol) it is not firing, I would take the plug lead off that plug and if you have another (spare) plug connect it to the plug lead and rest it so that the metal hexagonal bit of the plug is in contact with a bit of the engine or tinware that will earth it. Steve can hold it in place ( with something insulated) can give you quite a belt then turn the key
(out of gear!!) as if to start the engine (it may start on 3 cyls) and check there is a good spark on the (spare) plug.

If thats OK....... did you perhaps disturb the valve clearance settings, as I assume you had to remove the rocker shaft (was it that side?) when you did the push rod seals. Maybe the valves are not fully closing on that cylinder. Not sure if that would give you a wet plug, but it wouldn't help things.

Its a lot easier to do these checks than type them out

Give it a go if you can.

Mike

[Steve P]

Thank you grun It 'twas that pushrod that was leaking and that had the tube replaced on it.

My Step-father did what you suggested, but in his infinate wisdom got Steve to remove the plug to do it and then tried to start the engine - surprise surprise the noise wasn't very nice ... and a lovely petrolly/oily mixture came out of the hole and sprayed the side of me wardrobe in the back!

Steve is getting a tad cross now. To be quite honest neither of us know really what we are doing. I know bits and pieces that I picked up from my dad (who was a mechanic) but alas he is no longer.

The trouble is, the engine doesn't sound bad and doesn't smoke, it's only started all this since we did the pushrod seals, but they HAD to be done because that particular one was peeing out oil and leaving us in an oily haze because of the hot exhaust it was dripping on to.

Bev x

[Grun]

Steve&Bev (and Step father)

it's only started all this since we did the pushrod seals

It does sound more and more as if something you altered during the pushrod seal operation is the cause of your current woes. Is there no one near you who could cast an eye over the motor?

Did you get a spark by the way, oily petrol spray probably distracted you.

Mike

[Steve P]

Yeah they did get a good spark - Steve got a good poke off of it earlier today as well he he ha ha - 'twas funny did make me laugh!

We've a mechanic who lives in the New Forest who loves working on Aircooled's, just waiting for him to ring us back to let us know if he can come and have a look.

We try to do what we can to keep the cost down, but it's resorted to "let's call Blaize"

Bev x

[Laurie]

If y ou put the push rods back in the same holes, you may have got one sat on the edge of the lifter. You need to take it back to TDC on that cylinder and see if the valves look level.
They are a bit of a pain, because it is necessary to lift the end of the push rod as it goes into the follower (lifter) so it goes into the centre.

[Grun]

Steve&Bev,

I have a 1600 Aircooled Bay, lovely and simple, points, condenser, no hydraulic tappets, and has been such a good servant, now also have the 2.1DJ which has also been no real trouble, gradually worked all the usual electrical probs out of it, and never yet had to do anything to the engine itself, exhaust, cooling system, yes, so setting hydraulic tappets (you do have them?) is something I have yet to tackle.

I spent a great chunk of the middle of my life working in very remote parts of the World, and life (and vehicles) seem to have passed me by.

Don't give up on the old bus, you just have to be patient and pick up the odd bit of info here and there. Valve clearances would be my best guess, if you have a spark. My Haynes are 1600 and early 2 litre Aircooled, and 1.9 and 2.1 watercooled, so don't cover your (CU?)
Mike

[Grun]

Steve&Bev,

There ya go........ Laurie with all his experience has almost certainly hit on the answer straight away.

He posted while I was trying to help the bloke opposite with his problems.

Mike

[Steve P]

Thanks Laurie, it's a job for tomorrow then and a new rocker cover gasket and more sealant.

Sorry to keep asking questions. Steve loves doing things for himself and gets great pleasure from doing it. He's learnt a lot about her since we've had her.

Thanks too to you Mike for all of your help.

Bev x

[ermie571]

bev - got a haynes for the 2lt cu if you want it.....bit battered and beaten, but I don't need it any more....

Em
x

[Steve P]

Hi Emma

Please could you bring it to VanWest with you. Steve thinks it's the one he's got but not sure.

I am saving up my 20 p's and 50 p's to buy the solex's off of you.

Bev xx

[ermie571]

hehe...

the book is lime green....mine has the covers....but one isn't connected.

Will throw it in the van for you!

Emma