oil leek from push rod tubes

[dirtygertie]

My '82 2l Aircooled has an oil leek, i was told by the garage who recently serviced it that the push rod tube seals need replacing.

I have been quoted £75 for this (but i was quoted £65 for the service & ended up paying £210 because he had to replace the air filter system 'cos someone had put a bodge job one on )

It seems that these seals cost pence and as i probably need a new exhaust, i'm trying to save money.

my hubby knows a little about engines in general but nothing about Aircooled - would this be an easyish job for him to do (without swearing too much!)? he has no idea how to locate the part & unfortunately the only haynes manual we have is for a T2 (it came with the van)

any help would be very much appreciated, thanks

[meggles]

Hi, I did mine and they are fairly straightforward. Get quality ones though. i'm on lunch at mo, if you want step by step let me know and I'll get back to you this evening.
keith

[dirtygertie]

that'd be great keith, where did you get yours from? are they fairly inexpensive?

[meggles]

I am posting on here rather than a pm so that others can contribute and double check what I am saying, here goes:
They are not too expensive, I can't remember how much, about £1 each I think. (I bought tubes as well at same time). Got them from a local specialist.

Clean around area first. Allow for a little oil loss.

Remove rocker cover by prising off the retaining spring clip.
Remove the thin wire retaining clip which holds tubes in place(It has lots of bends in it, note how it fits).
Remove the bolts securing the rocker shaft.
Remove pushrods and note where they were from.
Carefully twist the tubes, especially if they are old and corroding (if too bad they'll need replacing), and ease away from the engine whilst still twisting, until they come loose.
Remove old seals and where the seals sit (both ends) in both the engine block, head and tubes give a good inspection and clean old seal bits out..
Grease/oil the new seals and put them on the tubes (different size at each end), and carefully replace tubes, twisting as you press them in (you'll feel them slot in to place).
Replace rocker shafts (11lb torque on nuts)
Replace the wire retaining clip (you took note of how it was removed, didn't you!!!).
Initial setting for rockers is to:
Position engine at TDC and slacken rocker nut on No1 cylinder, undo screw until it is no longer contacting rocker and then screw back in 'til it just makes contact with rocker. Now tighten 2 further turns and tighten locknut. Repeat for cylinders 2,3 and 4 by turning engine a quarter turn (distributor rotor will move by 90 degrees) in an anti clockwise direction.
Replace rocker cover (new gasket). Hold gasket in place with sealer or similar. (Various opinions on this).
Go make a cuppa, or pour yourself a whisky!

If I have missed something I amsure someone will correct me.
Hope this helps.
Keith
BTW, engine could rattle like Hell on start up, this will quieten eventually.

[jason k]

as he said or....... maybe just maybe ......twisting the tubes around a quarter turn or so sometimes re seals em

[dirtygertie]

thanks keith,

very useful - Nigel dosen't seem so daunted now.
he asked if you need to drain the oil out of the engine 1st?

[cumbriankeith]

That's a great write up from another Keith! The only variation I would suggest is that the "2 turns in from first touching" -preload is now generally accepted as too much - 1 turn is enough.

No, you don't need to drain the oil.

[meggles]

jason k Yeah, just maybe. With luck.
cumbriankeith, how you doing? I quoted from Haynes, and you are correct, no need to drain oil. Maybe a good time to think about it though if it is maybe coming up to oil change time!
Anyway dirtygertie, I think this should see you through. If not please post again, I am sure we will help you through it all!
Good luck. No one mentioned the whiskey though!
I edited my posting, I forgot to add cleaning the recesses out where the seals fit!

[cumbriankeith]

Haynes is ok for many things but not for everything - for more on hydraulic lifter adjustment have a look at thisand the links from it.
Keith - I'm doing well and hope you are too...

[dirtygertie]

Thanks all,
I'll keep you posted on how we get on (the 'we' is very loosley termed!)
I'm going to try to get Nigel on to it this weekend, so I'm arming myself with a very thick skin & the offer of a nice meal followed by some beer

[ermie571]

Karen,
Sounds like you understand your role pretty well, but don't undervalue it ...
your role as support officer is vital. You will maintain direction, provide motivation, and when necessary, sympathy with a huge dose of praise!

Practice the following, until you feel you have mastered TOTAL sincerity.

1. You're doing really well, don't give up now!
2. I really think that bolt moved then (that is really difficult!)
3. Wow, you've done it (warning - injecting too much surprise can offend, not enough and they sulk)
4. Keep going, its only been a little while (just remove all timepieces)

NEVER EVER "umm...think you've missed a bit....." If you ever find a positive, motivational way of saying that....please let me know. I have tried all sorts...didn't we need that bit then wasn't well received either...

And most important....remove any heavy tool from toolbox that could do real damage if aimed at the van!

Em
x

[toomanytoys]

Haynes is wrong for hydro adjuster preload

Use just touching and then 1/4 turn......

[dirtygertie]

Hi Emma,

There is no way of making an alternative suggestion whilst observing van maintenence! some things are simply not worth trying.

I'm making the most of my 'lovely wife status' at the moment as Nigel wants a new downhill bike and I'm the one who's just sold her caravan & has some £££'s - crafty way of getting the van going!

so plans for the weekend currently stand at;

Me: tighten the door mirrors
Nigel: replace pushrod tubes &/or seals

sounds fair to me!!!!