12v to 24v
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12v to 24v
Long story but I'm considering using electrically operated solenoid valves to switch vacuum to the diff locks.
It appears that 24Vdc is the industry standard so how feasible/practical is it to step the voltage from 12 to 24V?
Current needed is only a couple of amps.
It appears that 24Vdc is the industry standard so how feasible/practical is it to step the voltage from 12 to 24V?
Current needed is only a couple of amps.
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T3 Syncro DOKA (makeover nearly finished)
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Syncronauts: 15
T3 Syncro DOKA (makeover nearly finished)
T4 Syncro LWB Panel Van - now departed
T3 Syncro SIKA - deciding whether it's for the chop or worth saving
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maplin do this, but it's the wrong way around.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?cri ... Price=9999
I am sure that there is something that will work.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?cri ... Price=9999
I am sure that there is something that will work.
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
- amazingdave
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You could use a couple of small sealed lead acid batteries (yuasa 7Ah for example) wired in series to provide the power for the solenoid, charge them via diodes off the engine battery (separately), use a 12 volt relay to switch the 24 volts....
Or, you could use the original valves, mount them in a frame and use 12v solenoids to activate them, you'd need a spring to pull the valve back when you de-energise the solenoid...
So what's the long story?
Or, you could use the original valves, mount them in a frame and use 12v solenoids to activate them, you'd need a spring to pull the valve back when you de-energise the solenoid...
So what's the long story?
dg 1.9 14" syncro Fire engine/camper.
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- amazingdave
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Many thanks for all the advice.
The long story revolves around a protracted 1.9TDI (PD) transplant into my Syncro DOKA.
I have re-wired the vehicle which involved routing a load of cables from the engine via the fuse/relay plate, which is situated behind passenger seat, to the instrument panel (Golk Mk 4). The diff lock controls were in the way so I decided that electrically operated soleniods would be a good idea!
I have 'converted' the rear diff on my T4 syncro using a 12v solenoid by way of a trial which works very well but the solenoid was rather expensive.
I've been keeping a eye on eBay and 24V solenoids appear fairly regularly at favourable prices - hence my query!
I think I initially get a 24v solenoid (about £10)and see whether it will work with 12v if no then I try a 12V to 24V step-up converter (about £20).
Again many thanks......
Doug
The long story revolves around a protracted 1.9TDI (PD) transplant into my Syncro DOKA.
I have re-wired the vehicle which involved routing a load of cables from the engine via the fuse/relay plate, which is situated behind passenger seat, to the instrument panel (Golk Mk 4). The diff lock controls were in the way so I decided that electrically operated soleniods would be a good idea!
I have 'converted' the rear diff on my T4 syncro using a 12v solenoid by way of a trial which works very well but the solenoid was rather expensive.
I've been keeping a eye on eBay and 24V solenoids appear fairly regularly at favourable prices - hence my query!
I think I initially get a 24v solenoid (about £10)and see whether it will work with 12v if no then I try a 12V to 24V step-up converter (about £20).
Again many thanks......
Doug
80-90: 1053
Syncronauts: 15
T3 Syncro DOKA (makeover nearly finished)
T4 Syncro LWB Panel Van - now departed
T3 Syncro SIKA - deciding whether it's for the chop or worth saving
Syncronauts: 15
T3 Syncro DOKA (makeover nearly finished)
T4 Syncro LWB Panel Van - now departed
T3 Syncro SIKA - deciding whether it's for the chop or worth saving