Fitting interior - how do you start

Post by **pimpdriver** » 29 Jan 2006, 08:13

Hi,

I have got a panel van that I use for work (property maintenance/handyman).

At the moment I have some Ikea boxes fitted for storing nuts and bolts etc, but as I tend to chuck stuff in the back of the van, I want to make some proper storage that would double up as a bed.

I want to replace the current hardboard panelling with 4mm ply - the current hardboard has a few holes in it because it isn't very structurally strong and then fit some storage lockers (accessible from above) that make the load area level with the engine lid - hence a level area for a bed.

It is a walkthrough model but someone has fitted Dexron angle to make a bulkhead behind the driver and passenger seats, with a gap in the middle. This is a decent strong attachment point.

How do I go about fitting a piece of wood near the top of the "engine hump" - I want to know what fixings to use and where to attach them. And how do I attach a piece of wood to the side panel/structural member that goes up to the roof - self tappers???

Also, I want to put a piece of 12mm or 18mm ply on the floor of the load area, how would I attach it to the floor (if indeed I need to???).

Cheers,

Steve
Bristol[/url]

Post by **DiscoDave** » 29 Jan 2006, 10:45

i would say strip it completely! you can use self tappers in to all the parts that would usually have the door cards clip in to! you'l see what i maen when it's stripped! for the floor you can use self tappers but drilling the floor of your van may not be a good idea so on other option would be pink grip!! to the bulkhead again self tappers but make sure you seal and treat the holes that go outside! good luck! and take loads of pics, might be good for the wiki! i'm fitting out mine next weekend, doing an interior transfer!

Post by **TYG** » 29 Jan 2006, 11:06

wax oil the lot while its empty and sound proof / insulate it as well

Post by **HarryMann** » 29 Jan 2006, 11:11

wax oil the lot while its empty and sound proof / insulate it as well

Top advice mate, will be worth it, if only to stop condensation and corrosion behind those panels... Bob's Wiki's got some good idea in it, here...

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... self_build

The insulating and sound-proofing link is an old one, from Bay days, but is full of great ideas, though I doubt anybody has done such a thorough job in practice ever since Mr Bulley-Hewlett felt his new-wed missus deserved some peace and quiet and comfort on her honeymoon!

P.S. Answering a specific point, screw or bolt on the high points, check underneath where it's going to come through first, don't use overlong fasteners, nor too many, and when you've done dab all the screw protrusions from underneath with a good thick anti-rust paint.
You seem to have the right idea with amply thick quality ply, so it won't need hundreds of fasteners. If it can come back out easy enough annually, this will allow checking and refinishing if things are getting damp or nasty under there. The walls, need doing right first time really...

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 29 Jan 2006, 15:12

uploaded your pic Clive also uploaded the cab step repair in the rust section

Post by **DiscoDave** » 29 Jan 2006, 15:49

good thinking with the camping matt clive!!

Post by **HarryMann** » 29 Jan 2006, 18:41

Thanks Dave, I'm about to use the 12mm foil-faced one to line the underneath (outside) of the seat box. Should keep the noise down a bit, and our bum's cooler in the heat of Summer...

Looking for a better (cheaper) supply of those bitumastic self adhesive body panel sound deadening sheets, if anyome knows... Frosts are just too expensive.