Clutch pedal (& a leak from somewhere!!)

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Nicola&Tony
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Clutch pedal (& a leak from somewhere!!)

Post by Nicola&Tony »

The clutch pedal on our van feels as if it's getting a bit stiff and when I push down on it, it makes a creaking noise and feels like it's not travelling smoothly.

I did a search of previous posts and checked the Wiki but I'm none the wiser so would be very grateful for any pointers as to what the problem might be. I'll check the brake fluid level in the morning.

Tony :?
Last edited by Nicola&Tony on 21 Mar 2008, 13:25, edited 1 time in total.
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Post by lhd »

Could be a clutch slave cylinder problem. I take it the brakes are ok?

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Post by Nicola&Tony »

Thanks Rob, brakes are working fine. Is it likely to be a case of having to replace the clutch slave cylinder or repair it? If it needs replacing, does it need to be a genuine VW one or are the ones that tierod69 (B and B components) sells on ebay ok?

Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Post by lloyd »

Creaking noise is usually something binding because it needs lubricant. Check clutch linkage at petal or at bellhousing.
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Post by clartsonly »

the clutch is self adjusting, are you sure the clutch is not simply worn out and there is no more adjustment for it? there are no cables to need to lubricate, my clutch pedal sometimes feels stiff after a long drive without using it.
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Post by Rozzo »

tony try lubricating the pivot point of the clutch lever in the cab. that'll stop the squeaking m8 :wink:
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd »

Like Rozzo said. What you are discribing isn't being caused by the hydraulic part of clutch system, It's being caused by something binding in the pedal linkage from clutch petal to master cylinder or metal parts at/in bell housing from slave cylinder to clutch. Most likely pivot point in petal, but could be the rod from petal to master cylinder pivot. :wink:
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Post by Nicola&Tony »

Thanks very much for all the help so far! :D I've been outside having a closer look at this. I sat in the van before starting the engine and pumped the clutch pedal several times; there was no creaking of the pedal and the pedal movement was smooth. I drove a short distance (to move the van into the back lane for more investigation) and clutch pedal was still ok, so I'm thinking that this is something that starts once the engine has been running for a while, I'll do a test run this afternoon to test this theory.

However I've also noticed this morning that what I previously thought was a water leak from the windscreen onto the cab carpet between brake and clutch pedals isn't water at all because it's greasy and has an odour. I checked the brake fluid level and it needs topping up again and I only did it a few weeks ago. I'm not sure where it's leaking from though, I looked upwards from the carpet (see photos), but I can't see any sign of leaks from servo, master cylinder, or reservoir.

[IMG:512:384]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa78 ... s/002R.jpg[/img]


[IMG:512:384]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa78 ... 004R-1.jpg[/img]


I'd be grateful if someone could tell me what I'm looking at behind the steering column and boot, because this is looking like where the fluid might be leaking from. Everything above here (as far as I can see) looks to be dry.

The creaking clutch pedal symptoms that I described earlier, could they be linked to this fluid leak?

Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Mocki
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Post by Mocki »

thats the clutch master cylinder.......
nessled down there between the pedles and the floor.......

is that what appears to be fine mist kind of dampness on the rubber mat?
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Post by Nicola&Tony »

Thanks Mocki, that was fast!! Yeah, the dampness is on the mat, the rubber boot, the cab carpet and the pipe coming out of the master cylinder.

Does the cylinder need to be replaced then and could this be why I've been getting the creaking clutch pedal?

Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Mocki
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Post by Mocki »

could be..........

its better to replace than repair, but you could just try watching it while you press it, see where its happening from first

as for creaking, it maybe, but it maybe the other end, and you have two probs
Steve
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1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

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Nicola&Tony
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Post by Nicola&Tony »

Mocki wrote: . . . but it maybe the other end . . .

Does that mean the slave cylinder? Are the replacement cylinders from GSF reliable, I think some people on here have used them? If the GSF ones are reliable then I might be able to get them tomorrow.

Tony
Last edited by Nicola&Tony on 21 Mar 2008, 14:23, edited 1 time in total.
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Mocki
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Post by Mocki »

more like the clutch springs, or the fork and its mech..... heavey clutch can also be a hydrolic blokage, kinked pipe, or moisture in the pipe, water compresses under pressure more than clutch fluid, but you will be bleeding the cluctch out if you replace the master anyway, so one job at a time, id say............
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

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Post by edoh »

i'm sure you've seen -
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eplacement
ruddy useful -

i've used the gsf master n slave cylinder - both fine - that n bleeding the system from the slave cylinder end sorted out my problems -

might be worth giving all the nuts n bolts involved with changing the clutch slave n master a previous good soaking with wd or similar to encourage their removal -

my two headaches - getting the thick plastic hose that screws into the slave cylinder off - completely rusted in - eventually had to use a heat gun to shift it - and - the nut n bolt nearest to you when retightening new slave cylinder back into place - ooh my little fingies!

otherwise - much as haynes manual says it should be-
:)
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-

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Mocki
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Post by Mocki »

if you change the slave, and you have the means, weld the nuts to the underneath of the bracket, or use rivnuts, makes life loads easier next time.......and there will be a next time......hehehe

mind the state of your clutch pipe, they are getting the age now when they are likley to be rotten, and they wont like alot of moving aboutness...
Steve
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

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