Seam Rot.........Recomendations

Post by **68bay** » 15 Mar 2008, 18:13

Basically I have a bit of seam rot on my Atlantic and I want to get it sorted before it gets any worse, also my side planks are black and I want to have them colour coded as well, so does anybody have any recomendations for a body shop in the North West who can do these jobs for me

Thanx in advance

Post by **wasserleaker** » 15 Mar 2008, 21:00

think there's some advice on the wiki pages about this mate, also have a look at the 'paint your wagon with a roller' thread, the early pages have some info about rusty seams,
nice avatar!

Post by **Fritz** » 15 Mar 2008, 21:42

Eh up Keith,,,,,,You may find most bodyshops won't give any sort guarantee when dealing with seam rust as it is almost impossible to fully eliminate. BUT at the same time you want someone who will do a decent job rather than just a quick flash over.....

The only option is to have it cleaned up then treated with some sort of rust supressor and then etch primed and painted ,,,,this should hold back the worst of it for a couple of years, then the process may start over again.

I'd be searching for restoration places rather than a common or garden body shop...

Regards

Fritz,,,,,,

Post by **Spiral** » 15 Mar 2008, 22:30

Ah, the dreaded seam rot. Know how you feel mate

Have the same problem on my westy atlantic. Gonna have a go myself. There are a lot of good tips on here

Post by **Westy.Club.Joker** » 15 Mar 2008, 22:35

M A C

Post by **amazingdave** » 15 Mar 2008, 22:50

A lot of the seams rust from the inside out due to condensation, esp the rear arches. waxoyl, waxoyl, waxoyl....

only way to stop the return of the rot (Isn't that an old B movie?)

Dave

Post by **68bay** » 15 Mar 2008, 23:25

Westy.Club.Joker wrote:M A C

Met Stephan a couple of years ago, didnt realise MAC did body work

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 16 Mar 2008, 16:42

Re: "Paint Your Wagon With A Roller"

I've recommended Vactan to 80/90 members quite a few times and early on in the above article. It really does halt rust but I agree, its a problem area to get to. You really have to clean them out (removing seam sealer) and getting in from behind where you can.

Vactan is very fluid though and runs into areas like the seams incredibly well. Had a mate in Bristol (hi Laurie!) with a narrowboat and we painted some on a rusty section of his boat as a test last time he came up to Coventry Canal Basin (bear in mind these boats are always in damp conditions) and a year later it was still stable. He and his mates all use it now.

Post by **Spiral** » 16 Mar 2008, 18:17

CovKid wrote:Re: "Paint Your Wagon With A Roller"

I've recommended Vactan to 80/90 members quite a few times and early on in the above article. It really does halt rust but I agree, its a problem area to get to. You really have to clean them out (removing seam sealer) and getting in from behind where you can.

Vactan is very fluid though and runs into areas like the seams incredibly well. Had a mate in Bristol (hi Laurie!) with a narrowboat and we painted some on a rusty section of his boat as a test last time he came up to Coventry Canal Basin (bear in mind these boats are always in damp conditions) and a year later it was still stable. He and his mates all use it now.

I remember your comments regarding Vactan in an earlier post......actually it's here: http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... highlight= Have bought some myself and gonna have a go at those seams just as soon as the weather improves

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 16 Mar 2008, 21:04

Wear latex gloves though!! Sticks to fingers like strong glue and goes black/clear when dry.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 16 Mar 2008, 21:07

Oddly, another home remedy is VERY STRONG TEA. The tannin turns the rust black and neutralises it. Would be ok as interim measure.

Post by **AngeloEvs** » 17 Mar 2008, 01:37

As mentioned, many of the seam problems start from the back of the seam. Any seam that I can get to is thoroughly wire brushed at the rear (if rusty and flaky), coated with a good rust inhibitor, primed, painted and liberally coated with ordinary grease applied with a brush, cheaper and more effective than waxoil. So far there is no evidence of the dreaded seam rust returning but I make a habit of checking and re-applying the grease every spring. The section around the filler is also greased at the rear. Prior to onset of winter I brush on vaseline to exterior seams and window rubbers and it can easily be removed with white spirit when summer returns. So far so good and seems to do the trick.

Post by **Titus A Duxass** » 17 Mar 2008, 06:03

VERY STRONG TEA. The tannin turns the rust black and neutralises it. Would be ok as interim measure.

- What utter bollox. there is no magic converter from rust to metal. Once iron (or iron based metal) (Fe) goes rusty it turns into Ferrous Oxide Fe203 and you cannot reverse that process!

These magic treatments simply slow the progress of rust be form a seal around the rust just like a good coat of paint. If you want to get rid of rust you must remove the rusty metal (grinding, cutting, etc.).

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 17 Mar 2008, 19:45

Well thanks for the expletive but I didn't say it turned rust to metal. You can however 'stabilise' it and the tannin in tea will do exactly that. Quite a few rust inibitors contain tannin. Once stabilised, it has to be sealed from the air or it will continue to corrode.

Yes you should remove flakey rust and ideally replace with new if you can but I've painted Vactan on numerous rusty surfaces and it does stop rust. Who is going to cut out the whole of the side of their bus just to do seams though?

Post by **68bay** » 17 Mar 2008, 20:34

Thats all very well, but i didnt ask how to do it, what to do it with, the original question was

'' does anybody have any recomendations for a body shop in the North West who can do these jobs ''

Simple question