New Floor

Thin bits of metal and bright blue light.

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rustyundchen
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New Floor

Post by rustyundchen »

Hi all,

I will be fitting a new piece of ply to the van floor today after fibreglassing over some holes. How does one secure the ply to the floor? Do people use some screws? I was thinking about running silicon sealant along the top runs of the floor then setting the ply on top. I don;t know if this is common but suspect it'd be a mare to remove it all if I wanted to replace again. I remember when I removed the old wood there didn't appear to be silicion albeit it some at the edges. I think there was a few brackets that went through the wood and into the fllow below. I'm wondering if this was how they secured it?

If I have to use screws any idea how many and where I should attach?

Thanks in advance

Russell.
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Titus A Duxass
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Post by Titus A Duxass »

Mine is not attached. It is simply laid on. Naturally the cupboards and rear seat hold it down.

I think you would be okay with some discrete screwing into the metalwork.

Failing that, run a bead of silicon around the edge between the floor and sidewalls, etc. That will secure it and enable easier removal (by slicing the silicon).
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Post by rustyundchen »

Hi,

Just back from B@Q and Wickes and both of them only have a maximum ply width of 1220 mm whereas the measurements I took for the van were 1550 x 1550.

Do you think I could just buy 2, cut both to 1550 length then butt one 1220 one up against one cut to width 330 mm. I could then fix together using simple metal brackets........................ My plan is to then laminate over the top.

Anyone have any ideas on this?

Regards

Russell.
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Post by Titus A Duxass »

You could just butt them together with a bead of silicon between the two.
As long as they are a snug fit and level you should have no problems with the laminate flooring.
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Post by R0B »

i used marine ply on mine.it copes with getting wet better than.normal ply.and i didnt use anything to stick it to the floor.just remember silicone sealant eats into metal....
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Post by Ruby »

R0B wrote:.just remember silicone sealant eats into metal....

The salt and vinegar smell you get as silicon cures is from acid (acetic I think) so therefore it will munch its way thru your floor. Oh and don't use no more nails :shock: . Plumber friend of mine broke a shower tray that was held down with two or three dabs on one side!
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Post by Titus A Duxass »

It would probably take centuries for the acidic content of silicon to even make an impact on the metal of the floor.

After the solvents have evaporated off silicon is totally benign, that's why it has no smell when cured.
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Ruby
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Post by Ruby »

It will have a small effect on the metal, granted but, it will also have an effect on the surrounding paint which may expose more metal and it will all be in its own little micro climate under the plywood bubbling away unnoticed.
and here endeth the thread.
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Post by Titus A Duxass »

Once silicon has cured it is inert, it will not bubble away unnoticed.

It will not damage the paint work (both during the curing stage and the inert stage).
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Post by dink »

i used an 1220x2440 sheet to do my floor
the 1550x1220 section from the door way inwards, and cut up the remainder of the sheet, you will be able to get it 3 peices, as long as they are out of the way, under cupboards seats etc no one will ever know
gravity and my interior hold the floor down very well
i used silicone just along the joints, no where else
and adhesive to stick the carpet down
i used 18mm ply, so that when i screwed down the interior the screws didn't go through the metalwork, and because i did it that way, on an edge where you'd normally use 3 or 4 screws i used 10 or more
no rattles, movement or squeaks

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Post by mankymusic »

I stuck mine down with stainless self tappers, silicon around the underside to stop anything getting in.

[img:800:600]http://www.bangor.ac.uk/~oss403//benpow ... 205028.JPG[/img]
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http://www.mankymusic.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by Ruby »

Titus A Duxass wrote:Once silicon has cured it is inert, it will not bubble away unnoticed.

It will not damage the paint work (both during the curing stage and the inert stage).
Once the acid has lifted the paint during the curing the rust will go on bubbling away under the plywood,
Last edited by Ruby on 17 Mar 2008, 18:24, edited 1 time in total.
and here endeth the thread.
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Post by rustyundchen »

Thanks for the replies. Manky I love the can of Carlsberg there :) i fitted my floor with a few cans of Vier!

Next I am looking at a bed come seat for the back of the van. Anybody tried these?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0233464291

I am not going to be a frequent camper just would like one in there. I can't believe how expensive they all are apart from this one.............

Russell.
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Post by mankymusic »

make your own, get hinges from justkampers (or ebay), some 18mm ply, a case of beer and follow the instructions found in this zip file
http://rapidshare.com/files/100412496/rnr_bed.zip


have a look at my progress about this time 2 years ago
http://www.bangor.ac.uk/~oss403//benpow ... velle.html
my music -
http://www.mankymusic.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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