After some more power!

Big lumps of metals and spanners.

Moderators: User administrators, Moderators

Locked
sirving55
Registered user
Posts: 5
Joined: 23 Jan 2008, 12:48
80-90 Mem No: 0
Location: Devon

After some more power!

Post by sirving55 »

Hi
I have a 1983 1.9 watercooled 5 speed T25 Viking Conversion. As much as I love my bus I can't improve the top speed of 55mph!? I know the van will never take on a Porsche but I'm just trying to get the van up to 60mph to avoid absolutely everything overtaking me on the motorway!
I've changed the oil and filter, had the carb adjusted and fuel and air mix. Also had the throttle cable adjusted.
Not sure where else to go from here? Would a Weber carb give me that extra little BHP, or something else?

Any advice much appreciated. Thank you all!

User avatar
Mocki
Membership Admin
Posts: 17286
Joined: 29 Sep 2005, 09:27
80-90 Mem No: 428
Location: Mansfield Notts
Contact:

Post by Mocki »

what engine is it?
DF or DG?
engine number is on the rear of the engine at the bottom of the oil cooler tower, just tween the alternator and the centre of the crankcase as you look through the numberplate flap.......

55 is abismal, something is wrong, you should easily cruise at 70.
ok its not going to get there in 6 seconds, but it should easily get there and stay there unless there is a big hill....

dont bother with the webber idea, it wont make enough difference to warrent the hassle imo, but sort out what you have.

a couple of good clear pictures of the engine bay may well help us help you.....
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911
👀
________________

1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

User avatar
toomanytoys
Trader
Posts: 2872
Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
80-90 Mem No: 41
Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire

Post by toomanytoys »

Engine number is below the "Oil breather tower" that should be...

If you are changing into top at 40 then it wont get there... easily.. these actually like to rev a little.. not scream but spin up...
Could bthe the second choke isnt opening, that sounds like it to me... there are a few small bits of vac hose on the carb.. and a vac diaphragm that operates the second choke, if there is a leak/damage it wont work...

User avatar
Mocki
Membership Admin
Posts: 17286
Joined: 29 Sep 2005, 09:27
80-90 Mem No: 428
Location: Mansfield Notts
Contact:

Post by Mocki »

yep, you have spotted todays "tryping error" sorry!
fingers moving faster than brain telling them what to trype!
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911
👀
________________

1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

User avatar
kevtherev
Registered user
Posts: 18832
Joined: 23 Oct 2005, 20:13
80-90 Mem No: 2264
Location: Country estate Wolverhampton Actually

Post by kevtherev »

could be a DF but even so that's awful

eliminate things

I'd start with a good service change plugs, dizzy cap, leads, Air filter..(oil and filter?)

take it out for a run...spin it up before shifting

I'd check timing (with light)...check advance is working (suck on the pipe)..check air leaks (MOT emissions will do that)

take it out for a run

2nd choke pull down units fail as Toomany says
Last edited by kevtherev on 10 Mar 2008, 18:36, edited 1 time in total.
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)

sirving55
Registered user
Posts: 5
Joined: 23 Jan 2008, 12:48
80-90 Mem No: 0
Location: Devon

thanks for lack of power advice

Post by sirving55 »

Thanks alot for this response. I am going to contact my mechanic friend and ask him about the second choke and whether he can help me check it.

Also I've been advised to change the dizzy, ht leads, air filter and plugs. I'm really hoping this solves it.

Thanks.

toomanytoys wrote:Engine number is below the "Oil breather tower" that should be...

If you are changing into top at 40 then it wont get there... easily.. these actually like to rev a little.. not scream but spin up...
Could bthe the second choke isnt opening, that sounds like it to me... there are a few small bits of vac hose on the carb.. and a vac diaphragm that operates the second choke, if there is a leak/damage it wont work...

User avatar
toomanytoys
Trader
Posts: 2872
Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
80-90 Mem No: 41
Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire

Post by toomanytoys »

no point in changing the dizzy unless its the wrong one or faulty in the first place.. What dizzy does it have? it should have the standard electronic one?
dizzy cap and rotor might be worth it, but if they look in good nick, prob wont help..
ignition side of it... if its missing and running rough, it should help, but if it runs fine but lack power, then it prob wont help..
Timing should be done with a warm engine and set to 5 deg BTDC (vacuum off the dizzy), you can use approx 7.5 deg BTDC as this can help a little..

Ye Olde Syncrospares
Trader
Posts: 836
Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 06:36
80-90 Mem No: 1315
Location: deepest devon

Post by Ye Olde Syncrospares »

adjust tappets too,even hydraulic tappets need setting up,cj.
bought some real off roaders!!!!!!!

clartsonly
Registered user
Posts: 27
Joined: 22 Feb 2007, 11:15
80-90 Mem No: 0
Location: bedfordshire

Post by clartsonly »

empty the water tank for the sink and put a spoiler on the back :D

try some air in the tyres, or what about shell optimax. I quite enjoy drive around at 55mph, if you are careful and get a good line, you can sometimes even go straight over on roundabouts, to get some distance betwqeen you and the cars behind.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

Locked