Fuel tank

Post by **SyncroSam** » 25 Jan 2006, 07:27

Is it possible to remove the fuel tank with the engine in situ (dj)?

Cheers,
Sam.

Post by **Ye Olde Syncrospares** » 25 Jan 2006, 08:45

it is possible,but as the gearbox has to be removed why not remove engine and box together,it will make removal of the tank a whole lot easier,cj.

Post by **SyncroSam** » 25 Jan 2006, 16:26

Thanks for the reply cj.

why not remove engine and box together,

Cos that is more work, and if its not strictly necessary would rather not bother!

Cheers,
Sam.

Post by **HarryMann** » 25 Jan 2006, 23:52

Going for it then Sam, strengthening those rear spring hangers at the same time, am awaiting pictures of bent ones, due yumping

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 26 Jan 2006, 08:47

I think the time you'll save not dropping the engine will be wasted frigging around trying to work around it when it's still in the van and you're trying to drop the fuel tank around it.

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Jan 2006, 10:19

Even with the engine out, I think it will need levering out with jemmy's !
If you do go for it, we could do with a photo article, esp. re: all the stuff up ther behind it...

Post by **SyncroSam** » 26 Jan 2006, 16:01

Clive,
Should have a chance to do it this weekend, and will as always take pics. Might not have a chance to take that many though as supposed to simultaneously refurbing a swivel pin on a 90, so may be pushed for time.

Cheers,
Sam.

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Jan 2006, 16:06

Great. I know it can really slow you down, beacuse you can't have the camera at the ready all the time, especially an expensive one.

Inside of rear chassis rails, as far forward as they go behind the rear cross-member, just up behind the sound insulation that clipped in place - hole(s) ?

Post by **Aidan** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:15

Just dropped tank out of '89 velle and there were no sound deadening panels fitted between the tank and the body. There's the stickon sound deadening inside the vehicle over the rear arch and engine lid/load bed.
Had to lever the tank out as couldn't remove straps at front mounts - straps were shot. Have some pics will let you have, also of wheelarch filler pipe area.

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:19

No, I'm still abit confused about how those straps actually locate up top at the front, having twisted them out. I'm convinced there's not an overtank strap as ETKA shows, or I cansee no sign of it

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:28

Etka pic of the straps is inacurate (anytime you see brackets around the item number, it means the description is not acurate). The strap which goes over the top (in Etka) is actually the short strap... confusing!!

VW have lowered the price for those straps now so they're not silly money. I bought a good set from CJ and had the powder coated them so they'll last.

Taking the tank out isn't too bad and should be possible with the engine in place.

Above the tank there is sound deadening (as Beaker pointed out) and its stuck in place and also has 2 thin frames of metal which hold it in place.

MG

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:36

I drilled two 3/16" holes in the back of the rear cross-member each side, about 2" apart, and made up a couple of peg-board style hooks from numpty metal, that my homemade stainless straps clip over - as I certainly was not in a frame of mind to remove the tank.

Have dims and pictures, 22swg stainless strip is quite sufficient.. spot welded up to the original brackets at the rear, to take the drop-down studding. Used rubber strip (ribbed rubber mat) to line it on the inside against the tank.

Whatever you do, make sure the fuel pump is wrapped in rubber strip or anything to keep it away from the straps - they corrode like hell, mine was pouring fuel out by the time I got it down, and it had been bodged up with filler before. Part so it were dust.

So the conclusion is that up the front of the tank, is a bad area for corrosion?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » 26 Jan 2006, 20:08

Sam,
Are you looking to replace the straps or something else which means removing the tank?

It is possible to replace the straps without removing the tank completely.

MG

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Jan 2006, 21:47

This was all over 2 years ago now on Tyger, it was pretty badly cooroded in that whole area, straps made at the time are fine, but I just couldn't see up to where the front attached to, having ripped them off and not aware of any others at the time who could advise, so as I said, made up some two-fingered hooks that located in the rear cross-member, about an inch down from the top. A bit of a fiddle drilling the holes there, but allows the straps to pivot nicely.. getting their length right was the trick, took a couple of goes.

But yeas Sam, I may well have the tank out before it goes back a second time, prob won't get a chance again, and understand a good idea to fully drain and check the pickup and sender areas.

Post by **SyncroSam** » 26 Jan 2006, 22:33

My straps are fine, and not the reason im removing the tank.

The main reason, is to replace the gravity vent valves, but whilst im at it will replace the hoses etc etc.

The gaskets for the sender is on backorder from Germany, so won't be replacing it this time round.

Cheers,
Sam.