Cylinder head problem

Post by **mrbeans** » 28 Feb 2008, 19:38

I've lived with a water leak on the cylinder head for about 2 years. But lately its got alot worse so i took the plunge removed the engine and embarked on a rebuild.
I've removed the heads but the liners came out with them and are stuck fast. I've clean round, soaked them is wd40, left them in oil over night but they won't budge.
Any ideas or tricks?

Also any advice with the rebuild, what should i replace as a matter of course?
I was think to replace the water pump, thermostat and piston rings plus anything else that's worn out of spec.

Cheers in advance.

Post by **kevtherev** » 28 Feb 2008, 19:49

we could...if we knew what engine you have stripped

welcome to the forum

Post by **mrbeans** » 28 Feb 2008, 20:09

Sorry newbie here so please forgive..

It's a 1.9 DG engine.

I've just been reading the elite engine thread and £680 is quite tempting but i'm still going to carry on and see how far i get.

Post by **T'Onion** » 28 Feb 2008, 20:23

hit unm wit t'hammer

, gentley tap around the sleeve with a hammer and they should come uut

HIT UM

Post by **kevtherev** » 28 Feb 2008, 20:31

forgiven..

you kinda answered your own question there...anything that's worn out.

That is what elite do.

I wouldn't touch the crank/bottom end..

matter of course...rings, pins, seals, gaskets and pumps.

bores and pistons if they are badly lipped/scored/oval/out of spec

further on are hydraulic lifters, and all things clutch

others here can give you more advice that's my 2 pence worth

have you sourced the water leak?

Post by **Laurie** » 29 Feb 2008, 23:47

Bad advice Kev. If you do a nice build on the top end and the bottom end is worn, it'll die.
Camper and Commercial are re-publishing the water boxer rebuild article that I did about 10 years ago in their restoration and maintenance guide.
I've been building them since 1985
Any rust in the studs, and you need to replace them.

Post by **kevtherev** » 01 Mar 2008, 00:44

I'd only dismantle the bottom if there was good cause

my opinion that's all...not advice

respect is due to you for replying to this post laurie with your experience

I too have 30 years of engines albeit Motorcycles ..same beast but not flat

Post by **jed the spread** » 01 Mar 2008, 04:29

Laurie wrote:Bad advice Kev. If you do a nice build on the top end and the bottom end is worn, it'll die.
Camper and Commercial are re-publishing the water boxer rebuild article that I did about 10 years ago in their restoration and maintenance guide.
I've been building them since 1985
Any rust in the studs, and you need to replace them.

are you laurie as in Laurie Petit ?

jed

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 02 Mar 2008, 19:34

sometimes you can get away with a light top end rebuild but from donkeys years building Type1 engines, you're effectively putting a bionic arm on an old lady and the increase in compresson can finish the bottom end off - matter of luck generally.

I have (on one occasion) stripped down a bug to replace ONE worn valve cos the guy only had £7 but advised him he was on his own after that. I've also seen far too many budget jobs at increasing power with alternative carbs and exhausts, bolted on to 20 year old engines. Needless to say, few got more than a few months use out of them. You can get some indication of bottom end wear by grasping piston rods and seeing how much movement there is but its only guesswork really. Stripdown is better. Not a big deali doing that, but price of parts might well be. Bug parts are significantly cheaper than T25 bits.

If mine went (given the price of oil now),I'd just look for a alternative lump and go for it.

Post by **fairwynds** » 05 Mar 2008, 13:31

Mr Beans
Last year I undertook my own 1.9DG complete rebuild (without crankcase work, as all tolerances were good) I took a few hundred photos of all stages and can post any as required. Heres one of the engine once cleaned up a bit!
Whereabouts are you based?
FW
[IMG:800:600]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG1899.jpg[/img]

Post by **Laurie** » 05 Mar 2008, 14:21

Water boxers are sneaky bleeders! I have often taken them apart for water problems and been astounded that a big end was on the brass.
In an air cooled, it would have sounded, but in the WBX, the bugger remained quiet. If I'd fixed the water problem and sent it back, I'd have had a warranty claim. I laways split them, but it is easy to change ends without splitting the case.

Camper and Commercial are about to re-publish the water boxer build article I did with Paul Cave,10 years ago, in their restoration guide.