Help! Where should this pipe go?

[ermie571]

Hi Mate - looks like you don't need the carb mate!!! Phew....one less thing to worry about!

BUT,, if you want a couple as spares etc let me know by pm - sure we can sort sommat out!

Em
x

[VWCamperfan]

Yeah... just make sure you know theres a fuel return line on the tank and that its blocked off!

I'm saying no more!

[Steve P]

I blocked it off yesterday until I found out what it was. Put another piece of hose on the end of the spiggot and put a decent bolt in the end and jubilee clipped it up.

Thank you everyone for your help as always.

Back to the starter motor then I guess and doing the earth strap on the gear box as suggested. I'm also going to replace the battery terminals as they look pretty old and rubbish. It's just a shame that she hasn't been shown much love in years gone by.

I've also found someone who is going to replace the viking roof canvas for me, so if any of you other viking roof guys need a source let me know.

Also, Simon, what does the CT and CU mean that you mentioned please, just out of curiosity?

Thanks again

Steve

[ghost123uk]

and replaced the starter motor bush (looks like a piece of copper piping) that sits in the hole into which the metal sticky out bit of the starter motor fits (do you like the tecnical language?). Tisn't always the easiest thing to get out,

Under estimate !!

I am no novice at car / van mechanics but that job was a real pain.

No room to get at it with a normal screwdriver and hammer.

Eventually, with lots of cursing and poking / scraping / bashing including using the "recommended" method of pulling it out with a tap ( from a tap and die set silly ! ) AND trying another "recommended" idea of using an expanding "rawlbolt" I did manage to get it out ( all be it in pieces )

Sadly examining the bits in my case, it did not look worn, I finished up replacing the starter motor ( not to bad a price from the local Euro Parts iirc )

Oooh - found the posts on this at = http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... highlight=

[ghost123uk]

btw - if you or anyone else needs one of these bushes, send me a p.m. and you can have 1 f.oc.

I finished up with 3 of them as I was advised to get more than 1 as it is easy to damage them on fitting.

Sods law - mine went in fine first time, hence 2 spares that have been "ready soaked" in oil for about a year !!

[Laurie]

The CU engine, is a 68BHP 2,000cc engine and a triumph of engineering being that all of its Type 4 (that's the original vehicle that had the engine) predecessors were more powerful than it. On this side of the Border, it is also called the 'jimmy engine' as in CU Jimmy!

The CT engine was a horror story from the very beginning. The first ones cracked heads and often spat their plugs out before they got to 10,000 miles. It was loosely based on the 1600 type 3 engine, but without the reliability, power, torque and good looks. This side of the Border, and on every other side of the Border, they are known by very rude names that may be deleted if I try to write them.

The raggy arsed specialists that VW have always looked down their noses at, found that the CT went better and lasted longer, using Beetle 1600 barrels and pistons. Then, certain daft people wondered what would happen if the kept the compression low, upped the CT to 1776 and added twin carbs and a bit of extra oil cooling... Plus getting rid of the hydraulic tappets by using a beetle cam and type4 solit followers. 70 odd brake, instantly. Then to add to insanity some old fool decided to fit a 2.1 water boxer crank in the CT and 90.5 barrels and pistons giving 1966cc.

You never know, but there is a chance that a 2.1 litre CT with 48 IDAs and a drop of nitrous may just appear at one of the Drag Meets next year.

So... Back to sleep now and keep hold of that little valve. It's wonderful for diesel engines with worn pumps. Stops the fuel running back to the tank!

[Steve P]

Thanks Laurie for telling me, it's nice to know.

Steve