1.9 Watercooled petrol coolant leak
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1.9 Watercooled petrol coolant leak
All, on the way back from the Dubfreeze, I noticed my temp gauge wouldn't stop flashing. Cold I thought, but no. Stayed on all the way home. At first, thought it was just low-coolant. I topped it up, only to find a leak from somewhere under the engine block.
The main expansion tank stays full for a good while, but the expansion/top-up tank does empty after a few miles. I can see air bubbling into the main tank, but no crack or loose hose connections.
The coolant seems to be dripping off the bottom strut of the engine block, and not from any entry/exit points on the engine itself. Temperature stays fine until obviously the coolant level gets too low.
Is there a hose that I just haven't seen anywhere in that location?
The main expansion tank stays full for a good while, but the expansion/top-up tank does empty after a few miles. I can see air bubbling into the main tank, but no crack or loose hose connections.
The coolant seems to be dripping off the bottom strut of the engine block, and not from any entry/exit points on the engine itself. Temperature stays fine until obviously the coolant level gets too low.
Is there a hose that I just haven't seen anywhere in that location?
- Ian Hulley
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Is it running out from the gland in the bottom of the waterpump ? This can run down and appear to be coming from the injun itself (bu&&ered water swatter
) .... OR the 'J' tube to the left side of the engine as you look from behind, these rot out oalong the bottom despite looking like new on the top
.
Ian.


Ian.
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
- Ian Hulley
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- Nicola&Tony
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Ian Hulley wrote:Is it running out from the gland in the bottom of the waterpump ? This can run down and appear to be coming from the injun itself . . .
Rings a bell with me! Release the tension on the vee belt, then remove the belt and try to wiggle the pulley wheel that's attached to the water pump. If there's movement around the pump spindle / bearing then it's time to fit a new one.
Sounds like it was cold at Dubfreeze, do you know how much anti-freeze you had in your cooling system?
Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van
T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!
LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.
T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!
LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.
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Looks like it'll be a weekend job so I've got some daylight to check things over. Nicola and Tony, there should have been a fairly healthy mix of anti-freeze in there, but I'd also topped up neat at a service station on the way home. I know it's leaking because I needed another top-up when I'd got back and the gauge was creeping towards the hotter end of the scale when I wasn't getting enough wind on the radiator (i.e. town driving). I'd guess also the temp light continues flashing as a drop in pressure occurs?
- toomanytoys
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RED lights mean STOP... not keep going "coz its only 1 hour from home" etc etc...
So far you have been very lucky not to blow it up..
Have you bled the air out of the system at the rad too?
If you cannot see any leaks from hose joints etc, then you need to have a look behind the pushrod tube protectors, the main water jacket tends to leak if it isnt easy to see from any where else..
If it is the jacket seal then its really an engine out job.. and you have to consider if the studs are in good enough condition to withstand undoing...
Identify where the leak is coming from first..
Oh and dont be tempted to start adding "radweld", it rarely works and usually ends up blocking heaters and rads up...

So far you have been very lucky not to blow it up..
Have you bled the air out of the system at the rad too?
If you cannot see any leaks from hose joints etc, then you need to have a look behind the pushrod tube protectors, the main water jacket tends to leak if it isnt easy to see from any where else..
If it is the jacket seal then its really an engine out job.. and you have to consider if the studs are in good enough condition to withstand undoing...
Identify where the leak is coming from first..
Oh and dont be tempted to start adding "radweld", it rarely works and usually ends up blocking heaters and rads up...
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Having spent a small while checking over pipes again and the pump, I see no leaks, but have thought it might a good idea to try a presure test. The kits seem expensive, and wondered if I could get the same effect by using my footpump with a presure gauge on it pushed into a much cheaper new expansion tank cap?
But I wouldn't know really what kind of pressure to use. Anyone got some advice? Thanks for any in advance.
But I wouldn't know really what kind of pressure to use. Anyone got some advice? Thanks for any in advance.
- Nicola&Tony
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mal0r wrote: . . . but have thought it might a good idea to try a presure test. The kits seem expensive, and wondered if I could get the same effect by using my footpump with a presure gauge on it pushed into a much cheaper new expansion tank cap?
But I wouldn't know really what kind of pressure to use. Anyone got some advice? Thanks for any in advance.
Running a pressure test . . . is this different to getting the engine up to temperature and having a careful look around?
Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van
T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!
LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.
T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!
LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.