Just wondering whether I ought to fit a relay to switch amp.

[syncrodoug]

I'm fitting a Audio Symphony radio/cassette/CD player (Draco bargain!) with a BOSE amplifier (eBay) to my DOKA.
The radio and amp are supplied separately by the same fuse (ELSA circuit diagram) - am I correct in assuming that the amp is on 'standby' until switched by a signal from radio when that's switch on?

[VWCamperfan]

Yes my friend, that is correct. 3 commectors in all, one earth, one live permanent feed and a switched live from the stereo (either from a dedicated amplifier swtch lead or from the electric aerial lead, both or either from the stereo).

[Syncro G]

I'd be tempted to run the amps main power feed from a seperate fuse/sorce to the radio power feed. A relay won't be needed as its built in as you describe.

When turned up with a bit of base a powerful amp (and even a moderate powered one) can draw can draw quite a current. Fuse popingly so if that fuse is also already running the radio (with CD changer?), intereour lights, and cigar socket at the same time. Its anoying when the radio looses main feed as you'll probubly need to redo the presets and code if it has one.

[kevtherev]

yes I've done this as syncro has suggested...and have put in a switchable power source too

[DiscoDave]

the amp has it's own relay inside it triggered by the remote signal from your head unit. if you want to fit a switch then fit it to the remote wire to the amp, this way you can have the amp off if you are parked up for example, so as not to flatten the battery!

[syncrodoug]

I have separated the feeds to amp and head. Amp now comes direct from 30 through a separate fuse.
I think I'll switch signal from head - just got to work out which one it is!
Many thanks for all the advice
Doug

[sevy]

switch signal is usually orange , blue is normally for telephone . main is red ie direct to the battery and yellow switched live ignition