DJ Head gasket change

Post by **DollyCollins** » 08 Jan 2008, 21:29

Well, hello there

I'm about to do the headgaskets on my 2.1 litre DJ engine, I've got the engine out of the bus, I've got the gaskets and sealant goo stuff etc. The Haynes manual is open at the right page and I'm about to start. (It's a first for me this- can you guess?) Now, is there anything I should know beyond what the mysterious, enigmatic Haynes manual tells me? Is it just as straightforward as the manual suggests (basically taking it apart, slapping on goo, replacing gaskets and bolting it all back together)or are there any other things I should know about-

e.g. will it make any difference if it's been done to the engine before?

will any metal bits need replacing or machining?

Sorry if these sound dumb, I've only ever done a beetle engine rebuild before

I'm particularly concerned about getting this right because my boyfriend is going to be merciless in his pi$$-taking if the things start leaking in the summer when we're five hundred miles into France

Post by **toomanytoys** » 08 Jan 2008, 22:13

Mmm... it could go well, it could go badly... clean everything.. once you have removed the rocker assy, crack each of the nuts off and then see if the head will come away from the barrels, you DONT really want to pull the barrels witht he heads as you will have to re seat and any crap in the jacket could get in the crank case...
make sure you remove the metal seals (the real head gaskets) from the heads clean the "green" O ring grooves and the sealing face on the heads, use sealant sparingly..

It would be worth grinding the valves back in too unless they look good... but make sure you clean them well...

the outer seal, its possible the heads have corrosion where the seal seats... these areas should be cleaned up with a brass bruss, degreasedand you can "fill" then with "chemical metal.."

When re installing the rockers, back off the adjusters and you can preload them by a !/4 to 1/2 turn (Haynes is wrong with 2 turns)

Post by **DollyCollins** » 09 Jan 2008, 07:08

Thanks

I'm hoping things won't be too bad inside. Now the engine is out I've found a metal tag on it that says 'Remtec 2003' I assume that it's a reconditioned engine and that's when it was rebuilt.

The heads are coming off on Saturday - is there any special technique to removing them? I remember on the Beetle one cylinder head needed a fair bit of 'encouragement'.

PS. I got the bus off German ebay and it had been stood unused but garaged for about a year before we collected it.

Post by **T'Onion** » 09 Jan 2008, 09:11

if you get stuck , give us a shout , only across in the land of sheep,(sheffield) ,

the one's ive done the sleeves have been stuck in the heads so i replaced the piston rings and the seals

, bit like si says really , clean it up .I would do one side at a time or make sure things dont get mixed up .. oh and mark up the push rods so they go back in the right way round and into the right hole .. just take your time ..

Post by **wasserleaker** » 09 Jan 2008, 20:32

mine were a sod to part from the barrels, but if it was re-cond. in '03 they might come away a bit easier , lots of penetrating oil like Plusgas should help, and maybe warming the heads with a hot air gun, carefull if you use anything to lever them apart that you dont damage any soft aluminium sealing surfaces tho. are they leaking coolant? or are you changing the gaskets as a precaution? just wondered, as i'm surprised they would need any attention so soon after being reconditioned.

Post by **DollyCollins** » 09 Jan 2008, 21:22

wasserleaker wrote: are they leaking coolant? or are you changing the gaskets as a precaution? just wondered, as i'm surprised they would need any attention so soon after being reconditioned.

They're definitely leaking, both into the cylinders and externally too. The bus had been stood unused for almost a year, in a garage admittedly, but in an area of Germany where winter temps drop to -15c. Could this be a factor?. I've gone through the papers that came with the van in the last 24hrs and found the receipt for the engine change done at a VW main dealer in Essen in October 2003. I think since then it's done around 14,000 miles.

Thanks for all the advice everyone

It's all very welcome! The Haynes manuals always seem to leave out vital stuff don't they?

Post by **wasserleaker** » 09 Jan 2008, 22:35

wonder if the previous owner skimped on keeping the coolant mix up to the right strength (important with the water cooled flat 4's, see wiki section for info) not just for the low temp protection, but vital to keep corrosion in the engine waterways at bay, i remember seeing an alfa romeo head that had been partly eaten away by corrosion cos the previous owner ran it for 2 years with plain water in the system, too bad even to be put right by skimming

seems odd that it would be leaking so soon. be interesting to see what you find to be the cause of the leaks when you get the heads off, keep us posted!

Post by **T'Onion** » 09 Jan 2008, 23:02

make sure you have a really good look at the heads after you have cleaned them up ,

Post by **billy739** » 09 Jan 2008, 23:20

check the head studs for corrosion, they usually break when the jobs all done and you are tightening them up!
if in doubt replace them , if it was any other vehicle they would be replaced without question!

Post by **toomanytoys** » 11 Jan 2008, 16:20

REMTEC...... 14000 miles.... sounds about right from what I have heard...

there is no way that poor coolant should have caused much corrosion in there...
badly put together... take your time and trial fit the heads with the old cyl gaskets without the rubber jacket seal, just to cheak the gap on the jacket to head... if the out area has been skimmed (its happend many times before) the jacket seal will have no chance of being squished enough to seal properly...

Post by **wasserleaker** » 11 Jan 2008, 17:58

THANK FCUK, someone at last has the same opinion as me about engine remanufacturers!
when i questioned how the likes of elite engines could sling together a 'recon' flat 4 water cooled engine, and still make a profit for less than 700 quid, and mentioned that the likes of remtec didnt even fit new cams and followers as standard in their 1300 quid rebuilds a while back, i got nothing but replies defending these people

Post by **DollyCollins** » 13 Jan 2008, 16:57

Well, got one head off

Two of the nuts didn't need 'cracking off'

They were tight but came off really easily, which I don't think they should've. Anyway, from the corrosion, it's clear where the leaks have been and to a novice like me it appears that the head wasn't torqued down properly when the engine was assembled. I've got someone experienced in these matters to come round and have a look at the damage to see where we go next. The head studs look shiny and new by the way.

Post by **wasserleaker** » 13 Jan 2008, 19:07

good news that the head studs are in good cond. did the head come apart from the liner without too much trouble?
hopefully, as long as the head sealing faces aren't too bad it won't be too difficult to sort the leaks, are you changing the 'o' ring seal at the top of the liner too? prob best to while it's all apart, also make sure you clean and de-grease the flat face of the head nuts and use the sealant in the gasket set on them when refitting

Post by **T'Onion** » 13 Jan 2008, 19:36

i'd do the lower seals at the same time .. these can be dont without taking the sleeves off

good news on it coming apart btw

Post by **DollyCollins** » 19 Mar 2008, 20:41

Hello again! Things moved on pretty quickly but were disrupted by my having to work away for a few weeks. Anyway, it's all diagnosed and almost ready to go back together except for one thing- One of the cylinder heads is buggered beyond redemption. As well as the corrosion it's apparently warped and has a crack developing, but GSF car parts and Just Kampers (frightening prices!) don't have any in stock so can anyone suggest where else I might try? I really want it working soon!