PUTTING MY ENGINE BACK IN
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- Registered user
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- Joined: 11 Jul 2007, 21:06
- 80-90 Mem No: 3849
- Location: west sussex
PUTTING MY ENGINE BACK IN
Hi i am after a small bit of advice as to the best way to put my engine back in , 1.6 tutbo diesel , is it to lift the back high enough and slide the full engine under the rear valance and then let the back down again .
Personally, id go underneath.
Lift the back up with a couple of trolley jacks - then slide the engine under on a piece of tough card board or similar.
Then used a engine hoist to lift it up to the correct hight so you can mate it up with the gear box.
I didnt get enough lift to be able to take it straight up and out like the old one did....
Good luck
Ringo
Lift the back up with a couple of trolley jacks - then slide the engine under on a piece of tough card board or similar.
Then used a engine hoist to lift it up to the correct hight so you can mate it up with the gear box.
I didnt get enough lift to be able to take it straight up and out like the old one did....
Good luck
Ringo
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.
- Westy.Club.Joker
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- Joined: 18 Sep 2006, 19:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 2863
- Location: Sunny Lancs. 1988 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker pop-top
Back end up on axle stands (high enough to get the motor in under the valance). Gearbox suspended from a strap hanging through the top engine hatch on a tube. Engine on a trolley jack set up so it looks level across the engine mounting points, jack engine up into position, locate the spigot shaft into the clutch, get a couple of bell-housing bolts in then get the engine bars located on the body and engine mounts and bolt up.
Did mine like that last month, took 10 minutes to locate and bolt it. Main thing is to get it set up level on the jack so it`s sitting at the correct angle, I used a piece of wood under the sump to spread the load, and a small block under the manifold to stop the engine keeling over onto the turbo, and to keep it at the right angle. 5 minutes getting it set correctly will save a load of messing under the `van.
Did mine like that last month, took 10 minutes to locate and bolt it. Main thing is to get it set up level on the jack so it`s sitting at the correct angle, I used a piece of wood under the sump to spread the load, and a small block under the manifold to stop the engine keeling over onto the turbo, and to keep it at the right angle. 5 minutes getting it set correctly will save a load of messing under the `van.
Keep it real.
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- Mocki
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you dont need it much higher than standard car rasmps, it just looks like it will need to be. i never bother with the engine lift, dont see the need, just slide the engine under then jack the engine up to the body...
i wouodnt reccomend blocking the brake pedle with wood, its not needed, a chock under the front wheels is enough with the handbrake on..
i wouodnt reccomend blocking the brake pedle with wood, its not needed, a chock under the front wheels is enough with the handbrake on..
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911

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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
tel / txt O7947-137911
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
- Aidan
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- Location: Llanfyllin, mid Wales : )
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with a diesel sitting at a silly angle using an engine lift I find that as well as the normal lifting points it helps to triangle it to the right hand engine support which will then hold it at the right angle. Ratchet strap under the gearbox for subtle adjustment, keep the weight off the spigot bearing. Oh and 6 tonne axle stands for less than £20 from Machine Mart mean you can safely get yourself lots of room underneath for comfort and safety.