Ok, so the clutch pedal goes down to the floor with no effort, the level in the reservoir has gone down, and there is signs of fluid around the slave cylinder.
Ah Ha! I think the slave cylinder is leaking!
Question is, how difficult is it to change? It looks fairly inaccessible, is there some 'tricks of the trade' to get at it?
geordie skydiver wrote: is there some 'tricks of the trade' to get at it?
Yep, don't let the 2 retaining bolts drop down into the bracket when you take the nut's off. The rear one won't do so easily but the foremost one will, put a nut on it to keep it in place.
Oh and if you ever drop the gearbox put M8 rivnuts in the slave cylinder mounting bracket instead
Have fun, Ian.
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
Ok, I managed to scrounge some tools and do this job.
Here's what I did.
How to change the clutch slave cylinder
You will need a helper for this procedure; they don't have to be mechanical geniuses though.
1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!
2. Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. (13mm)
3. Unscrew the hydraulic pipeline into the cylinder. (Cap the pipe with a plastic bag if you are going to leave it for any time)
4. Remove the slave cylinder from the bracket.
5. Place the new cylinder into the bracket. (after removing the blanking cap)
6. Refit the two bolts; bolt in through the bottom, nut on top. The rear one is a bit of a fiddle. Tighten to two white knuckles...
7. Refit the hydraulic pipe to its hole and tighten.
8. Remove the instrument console cover to gain access to the hydraulic fluid reservoir.
9. Remove the reservoir cap and top the hydraulic fluid right up to the brim. (Don't worry its going to drop down soon)
10. With your helper sat in the driver's seat, get them to pump the clutch pedal several times.
11. Get the helper to hold the pedal down while you turn the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, some air/fluid should come out, so have a cloth handy to mop up spills, and please try not to get any on your paintwork.
12. Tighten up the nipple, have the helper release the clutch pedal, then push and hold it down again.
13. Repeat 11.
14. Repeat 12.
15. Continue doing this until you get clean fluid through the bleed nipple, and the clutch pedal has good pressure. (You may need to top up the fluid in the reservoir at some point, I didn't)
16. Finally tighten the bleed nipple fully, replace the wheel and jack the vehicle down.
17. Replace reservoir cover and instrument console cover.
18. Take helper to the pub as thanks.
19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!
Geordie - that is a great write-uo - thanks.....needs wiki'ing.
just one question.....how easy did you find it was to remove those 2 13mm bolts? When we tried it, we just could not access them.....do you remember what tools you used?
How much went into the swear box???
just interested, as this is one job we wanted to do, but failed with....
The thoery sounds easy...it was just those bolts we couldn't get to!!
Emma
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
I used a 13mm stubby spanner (on the bolts) and a 1/4 ratchet with an articulated head + 13mm socket. (on the nuts)
No worries.
The hardest bit was locating the rear bolt on reassembly, then realising I needed to top the reservior up to the top after pumping air through the system for 20 mins... at which point my debt to the swear box increased somewhat..
timthetrader wrote:Just had mine done £296 so how ever difficult you think it might be think on! 4 hours labour ( which includes dinner breaks! ) £220 plus parts!
It would have been cheaper to drive to Sheffield and have me do it