Diff lock advise

Post by **willf** » 17 Oct 2007, 20:14

I am new to the t3 syncro thing really. Haven't off roaded it yet on more tha an easy lane. I wan't to keep the lockers alive so i obviously need to use them regulaly. So how slippy does it need to be to engage and disengage each one to keep them moving? What terrain should i use, how much space should i need, and how often should I do it?
And where can I go near Hereford for a bit of off roading? I gotta test it out!

Will

Post by **peasant** » 17 Oct 2007, 20:57

To just keep the difflocks excercised any soft ground and a bit of see-sawing on the wheel will do ...gravel, sand, grass ...whatever. Just make sure you got enough room for going straight ahead for a bit once the front locker kicks in.

Post by **Syncro G** » 17 Oct 2007, 22:33

If your bord driving on a queit road with a grass verge then pulling onto that can be a good place to test the lockers, if your lucky you might lift a wheel or two getting onto it

. You wouldn't actully need more than one side of the van off the tarmac to get rid of windup and maybe get the lockers to come on, but obveously you'd lack the space to weave a bit if the lockers didn't engage/disengage.

Another method I've used without jacking or straying off tarmac; engage one difflock, and then move in G or R as slow as possable (sliping the clutch) whilst the steering is turned. As soon as the difflock light comes on STOP (it won't take much) - at this point the difflock inards should be lined up and you'll be able to click it off and on instantly - afew goes should give it some excersize through full movement. Turn it off and then try the other moving as required to get it to lock inishally. The thing to avoid would be moving while its actully locked, they are unlikely to both come on at the same point so don't try doing both at once unless your on loose ground.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 18 Oct 2007, 06:58

Or you could remove the difflock actuator, clean and lube the parts and then re assemble.. making sure the "boots" etc are in place to protect them.. you then wouldnt need to worry about "excersising" them.. only when you need them..

of course if they are already sticking.. you may find that they stick on...
you really need to do it on wet grass or gravel, mud... and even on grass there is a good bit of load to get rid of..

Post by **KarlT** » 18 Oct 2007, 08:20

[quote="toomanytoys"]Or you could remove the difflock actuator, clean and lube the parts and then re assemble.. making sure the "boots" etc are in place to protect them.. you then wouldnt need to worry about "excersising" them.. only when you need them..

quote]

Mine don't work at all but there is air-pressure.
How difficult is that to do while on the van. I've seen photos of this done but only wirth gearboxes removed.
If rubber is perished & thingy stuck is it just better to replace whole unit?
I've seen new actuaitors on Ebay for around £25 (is this a good price?)

Post by **toomanytoys** » 18 Oct 2007, 08:28

Its not too bad to remove the actuator on the vehicle... yes its a fiddle, but not impossible...
the problem is if the pin is corroded and really stuck, then you might not be able to pull it back out...

Post by **v-lux** » 18 Oct 2007, 08:36

Most fiddly thing i find is getting the roll pin out so that the actuator will come off.

Ended up making myself a drift that pushes the roll pin out just far enough to release the actuator, but not so far that the roll pin comes all the way out.
Oh, and make sure that the roll pin goes back in correctly, with even just a smidgen of it left proud it will foul on the ally sleeve and stop the locker locking even though the light comes on indoors.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 18 Oct 2007, 08:43

Long 3mm drift... magnetic pickup tool on the back side to catch the pin.. as said refitting needs a 5mm drift, I use a pair fo forceps to hold the pin intil its started and tap gently until the drift touches the actuating rod..
check it moves in and out ok, before you bolt the actuator on the bracket..

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 18 Oct 2007, 10:57

One of the best ways of getting your diff locks on at home on the drive is to drive the bus up onto diagonally opposite inspection ramps. The syncro certainly wont do it with out difflock, and they should both come on immediately as you get wheel spin.

The front diff lock light will flash until engaged. Then when on top of the ramps, switch of the locks and as you trundle down they will disengage.
As has been said earlier it can take a little bit of shunting to get the locks to disengage, so only put them on where you have got space to shunt a bit. If I am off roading it's always worth switching them off in good time before getting back onto tarmac, as you can harly steer with the front on.

I have found that they come on as soon as any wheelspin occurs. I leave them off as much as possible, then you can tell how much traction you have and you can rescue yourself with difflock, and you know that you wont get stuck. If you off road with the ddifflocks on, then you will need recovery if you get stuck. If you see what I mean.

Once a month should be fine, for keeping them going.

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