Okay, lets get one thing straight, I don't know much about them, this is the first one I've dismantled and its a rear outer one off my van - I belive this example is a pritty normal common thing (not syncro spacific) though the guy at GSF recons they probubly aren't the same as a RWD vans because the computer says **NOT SYNCRO** on it, is it safe to ignore their warning?
I know the van has loads of these and that theres a clunking from somewhere (almost certainly from the front right outer but thats probubly hideing others). Due to cost I don't want to replace them all if they don't actully need it but then again I don't want to be overly cheep and have something fail in the near future.
It felt fine on the van but once removed there is a possubly some slight rotational play in it - if it was a UJ I'd probubly refit it but order a replacement for later. The inner joint does feal better but I haven't cleaned that yet!
Enough waffle, it looks like this...
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 8Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 0Small.jpg[/img]
Serface damage in one BB run only
Smooth but noticeably deep marks in other runs, this is probubly the worst , some aren't that noticeable.
Cage rubbing on outer case one one side of joint
Cage grove ware, sizes vary
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 5Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 7Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 8Small.jpg[/img]
This is the maker, looks like an OEM part, its a very late van thats estimated to have done about 120k miles.
Personly I'm thinking this ones a little spent but I'd like a more expert opinion. If it is spent what makes it so rather than just servaceable with signs of ware? (the Blue marks I can understand but how much ware can there be in the green area?). If your wondering why I haven't removed the driveshaft its simple, it won't come out without perswasion I don't think )circlip removed) so I don't want to damage it if its repairable. If its scrap I WILL win the battle of removeing it, be it through heat, chissles or grinders.
On the subject of replacement, whats the best replacement to get? I notice JK seem to do a couple that look pritty well priced. A GKN for just under £40 (in line with GSF and such) and a cheeper one for £25 - are the cheep ones any good or will I kill them in a year?
Thanks,
CV joints
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andysimpson
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Re: CV joints
Syncro G wrote:Okay, lets get one thing straight, I don't know much about them, this is the first one I've dismantled and its a rear outer one off my van - I belive this example is a pritty normal common thing (not syncro spacific) though the guy at GSF recons they probubly aren't the same as a RWD vans because the computer says **NOT SYNCRO** on it, is it safe to ignore their warning?
I know the van has loads of these and that theres a clunking from somewhere (almost certainly from the front right outer but thats probubly hideing others). Due to cost I don't want to replace them all if they don't actully need it but then again I don't want to be overly cheep and have something fail in the near future.
It felt fine on the van but once removed there is a possubly some slight rotational play in it - if it was a UJ I'd probubly refit it but order a replacement for later. The inner joint does feal better but I haven't cleaned that yet!
Enough waffle, it looks like this...
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 8Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 0Small.jpg[/img]
Serface damage in one BB run only
Smooth but noticeably deep marks in other runs, this is probubly the worst , some aren't that noticeable.
Cage rubbing on outer case one one side of joint
Cage grove ware, sizes vary
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 5Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 7Small.jpg[/img]
[IMG:640:480]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/ ... 8Small.jpg[/img]
This is the maker, looks like an OEM part, its a very late van thats estimated to have done about 120k miles.
Personly I'm thinking this ones a little spent but I'd like a more expert opinion. If it is spent what makes it so rather than just servaceable with signs of ware? (the Blue marks I can understand but how much ware can there be in the green area?). If your wondering why I haven't removed the driveshaft its simple, it won't come out without perswasion I don't think )circlip removed) so I don't want to damage it if its repairable. If its scrap I WILL win the battle of removeing it, be it through heat, chissles or grinders.
On the subject of replacement, whats the best replacement to get? I notice JK seem to do a couple that look pritty well priced. A GKN for just under £40 (in line with GSF and such) and a cheeper one for £25 - are the cheep ones any good or will I kill them in a year?
Thanks,
I have seen much worse but i would'nt bother re fitting it with the price of new ones. GKN/lobro ones are the ones to get, avoid anything else.
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Hacksawbob
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You will most likely need a press to get the inner off depending on the state of the splines, I twated mine in a vice with a lump hammer and they weren't going anywhere. Mine were in a similar state to yours and I changed them. you can swap left to right hand to get a bit more life out of them. Dont mixx up balls and cages from different sets
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syncrosimon
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That looks shot to me, I have seen worse though and when re-packed with grease they work again for a while. I have kept really bad cv joints going by squirting small amounts of engine oil in through the boot when they start to knock; to get you home only though. I dont think it's worth going to all that trouble and not putting a new one on. You wont have to ever do that strip down again. You are not hitting it hard enough!!! I dont remember them being that tight though.
simon
simon
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
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Syncro G
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Right, got all the rears stripped now. Are Lobro joints date stamped? If thats what the numbers after "Lobro" mean, it looks like both left hand joints are the exactly the same age and predate the van by months - likely to me originals (original grease too by the black sludgeyness). They are both warn fairly deep across the hole channel and with some pitting; I'm planning on replaceing them both I think.
The other side is more of a mistery, the pitting is very bad but localised to one side of ball tracks, the rest of the tracks are vertully unmarked. From what I can tell (though its late so I might have not been thinking it through right) the ware is on the wrong side of the joint, both sides seem to be wareing in the same direction! Also of note however (which could explain the ware pattern), the date (if it is such) are from 85 and 86. I'm wondering if these joints have been taken off a more powerful RWD van and so have been pummled in one direction and are now running backwards where the ware is little? The grease was noitesably nicer too and everything came apart easyer so I don't think they'd been there so long.
I'm thinking for the sake of keeping costs down a bit (as I probubly need to spend some money on the front CV's and also need to swap the head, doubtless including some extra parts needed as found there too, though I already have the majour stuff) I'll refit the earlyer joints as they came off, and replace the other worn ones - efectively giving me a new shaft and a part worn one. In the not to distant future I can then replace the the one worn shaft easilly when it starts playing up, its not much effort after all.
As for pressing off the inner part of the CV, I think you are right. The other 3 came off by resting the shaft through vice jaws and tapping out the shaft with a light copper hammer. The stuck one doesn't respond to
with a considerably bigger hammer. I've got some Land-Rover stuff to press too so thats not really a problem, off to me friendly local garage tomorrow I think!
Cheers for your help.
The other side is more of a mistery, the pitting is very bad but localised to one side of ball tracks, the rest of the tracks are vertully unmarked. From what I can tell (though its late so I might have not been thinking it through right) the ware is on the wrong side of the joint, both sides seem to be wareing in the same direction! Also of note however (which could explain the ware pattern), the date (if it is such) are from 85 and 86. I'm wondering if these joints have been taken off a more powerful RWD van and so have been pummled in one direction and are now running backwards where the ware is little? The grease was noitesably nicer too and everything came apart easyer so I don't think they'd been there so long.
I'm thinking for the sake of keeping costs down a bit (as I probubly need to spend some money on the front CV's and also need to swap the head, doubtless including some extra parts needed as found there too, though I already have the majour stuff) I'll refit the earlyer joints as they came off, and replace the other worn ones - efectively giving me a new shaft and a part worn one. In the not to distant future I can then replace the the one worn shaft easilly when it starts playing up, its not much effort after all.
As for pressing off the inner part of the CV, I think you are right. The other 3 came off by resting the shaft through vice jaws and tapping out the shaft with a light copper hammer. The stuck one doesn't respond to
with a considerably bigger hammer. I've got some Land-Rover stuff to press too so thats not really a problem, off to me friendly local garage tomorrow I think!Cheers for your help.
Glen Syncronaut: 113 - 1992 JX Syncro pannel van
