clutch problem driving us crazy

Post by **irie68** » 16 Sep 2007, 16:51

had new clutch kit ,master and slave cylinder all installed at same time now pedal will only go halfway down ,unless bleed nipple is released then it depresses fully.cant drive her ,tried pulling clutch kit out and re installing but no joy,pulling hair out-please help

Post by **ermie571** » 16 Sep 2007, 17:12

can't help with the clutch problem, but fill in your profile ad tell us where you are....

then start at the begining - list engine code, what the problems were and what you have done yourself / garage to fix.

Maybe someone local who can assist, but if not, those who re the technical gurus will have more to go on.

take care

Emma

Post by **irie68** » 16 Sep 2007, 18:11

engine serial no. was ground off,our mechanic mentioned 19DG if that helps,the van is a 1984 T25 camper-2 litre petrol, all this started after a burning smell appeared after a drive out of town.on retuning i pulled in at the shps and when trying to pull away the gear knob wouldn't go into first.the clutch kit(from just kampers )was installed,the pedal problem started then so as part of the process of elimination we replaced the slave and master cylinder-to no avail.has since been in the garage where an ex VW mechanic has been totally flummoxed by it,he doesn't want any more to do with it we are at our wits end. the last thing he suggested maybe a thinner spinner plate,if it is possible!!

Post by **billy739** » 16 Sep 2007, 18:39

remove the rod from the clucth slave cylinder and look if its been modified in any way (ie lengthened) or it dosent look like an original item,ie ground off bolt,
sometimes these are bodged to get over a worn clutch,the when the job is done correctly things dont work!
i havent got one hear to measure, but will look tommorow, there about 4-5 inches i think.
sound like whats happening is the clutch cylinder is reaching the end of its travel,
also see if the bar the clutch clyinder bar pivots too looks loose/twisted

try this-
without touching the pedal push the clutch arm up(gearbox end) then see if you can remove the cylinder push rod and look at it,it should have smooth machined edges all round.
try making one about 1/2 inch longer from a peice of all tread/bolt and a 1/4 inch drive soket on the end
see how you get on..

Post by **ermie571** » 16 Sep 2007, 18:51

It was the right clutch kit...JK have 2 for the 1.9..... Can you compare the old kit to the new?

And if you don't know what engine it is....it isn't a replacement is it....I have a 1984 camper, but it actually has a 2.1 on a carb sitting in the engine bay....

Emma

Post by **phredd** » 16 Sep 2007, 19:00

Only two standard engines for a T25, they are a 1.9 and a 2.1 with nowt inbetween
Phredd

ooops in E D I T :- and a 1600

Post by **Ian Hulley** » 16 Sep 2007, 20:48

ermie571 wrote:It was the right clutch kit...JK have 2 for the 1.9..... Can you compare the old kit to the new?

And if you don't know what engine it is....it isn't a replacement is it....I have a 1984 camper, but it actually has a 2.1 on a carb sitting in the engine bay....

Emma

Early DG = smaller diameter
late DG = larger .. same as 2.1

1984 should be an early, where is your thermostat housing ? Bottom left when viewed from above it's early,top left hand it's a late.

Ian.

Post by **ermie571** » 17 Sep 2007, 08:02

Ian Hulley wrote:
ermie571 wrote:It was the right clutch kit...JK have 2 for the 1.9..... Can you compare the old kit to the new?

And if you don't know what engine it is....it isn't a replacement is it....I have a 1984 camper, but it actually has a 2.1 on a carb sitting in the engine bay....

Emma

Early DG = smaller diameter
late DG = larger .. same as 2.1

1984 should be an early, where is your thermostat housing ? Bottom left when viewed from above it's early,top left hand it's a late.

Ian.

See, I knew there would be someone along who could tell you the difference!

Emma

Post by **clartsonly** » 17 Sep 2007, 08:22

I dont understand how the pedal only goes down halfway, it is hydrolic so once the slave has engaged the clutch the pedal continues downwards until it touches the floor, are you getting clear fluid from the bleed nipple when you release the pressure? is it possible that the new master cylinder is not functioning properly, or connected up incorrectly. the clutch is not like a brake the pedal doesn't stop when the gearbox arm can no longer move, I think so anyway.. also does pressing the clutch pedal move the arm on the gearbox at all? if not maybe the new slave cylinder is seized or something like that, or the arm on the gearbox is seized or fouled by something else. I would not expect you could move the arm on the gearbox in situ without something very heavy or a jack etc.

good luck it sound very frustrating

Post by **irie68** » 17 Sep 2007, 16:37

thanks for all the help so far,i am sending these to my mmate and hope fully shed some light on the problem. keep 'em coming,thanks again!!!

Post by **R0B** » 17 Sep 2007, 17:42

that sounds very odd.why would anyone do that...

engine serial no. was ground off

Post by **irie68** » 17 Sep 2007, 19:45

foolishly threw away the old clutch kit so have nothing to compare-oops!!