small end bush

Post by **dave friday** » 28 Aug 2007, 21:52

Just had mine replaced,they seem a bit loose[ i can rock the piston pin] and the piston pin is'nt a tight fit in the piston[re- build books say that the piston may have to be heated to fit the pin].The machine shop people managed to loose the oil squirters!!.
Ta.

Post by **HarryMann** » 29 Aug 2007, 10:28

Has this engine been running a good TD oil, or treacle?

My small-ends were spot on, and all the rods I replaced them with also had no probs with small-end bushes, despite the engine cooking itself.

Seems to be getting to the point of everything is kernackered, have you had the intermediate shaft bearings checked? If not I would..

The screws that hold those oil squirters in should best be loctited and not overtightened I'd say.. strip one of those indavertantly and it could fall out.

We have a u/s block kicking a round here somewhere with some in, if you have trouble getting some (oil squirters)

Post by **dave friday** » 29 Aug 2007, 12:07

Harry, it's all a bit dissapointing,the bushes have been replaced as have the pistons and pins,intermediate bearings [a bit tight?], main and bigend shells [standard].do you know what the little end clearance should be?.It's always been run on proper td oil but was badly cooked when the aux water pump blew/fell apart. I have orderd oil squirters,big end bolts, crankshaft bolt,and flywheel bolts,what assembly oil/paste have you used?.
Any more advice very welcome.

Post by **HarryMann** » 29 Aug 2007, 12:49

Dave

All I've got is this:

Piston pin (gudgeon)

If difficult to remove heat piston to 20 Deg. C
Remove and install with VW 222a (some chance

)

mm Dia.
26mm for 1Z and AAZ
24mm for 1Y

Not sure for JX

No specs for wear of small-end bush I can see...

Markings on con-rod go towards pulley end of engine (notches in bevelled edges of rod and cap, if any)

(Andy McClements has a workshop manual for JX/1600 I believe and is currently rebuilding one too.. (SyncroAndy))

My gudgeon pins (AAZ) were a very good fit with no real rock, and didn't look oval to the eye)

I assembled using Redline assembly compound, though I'm sure engine oil will do fine (there is current theory that rings/pistons don't bed-in very quickly if assembled with loads of low-friction assy compunds, so just used oil there)... I ran it in pretty quick as just honed and not rebores, 500 miles or so.

Clean and chase out all the sump threads for those M6 polyhead screws, esp. the ones at either end of block into the oil-seal housings, and check clean threads of the screws. Can see you a few if they are dodgy, they are longer than the normal VW steel sump ones. And the ones for the two long bolts through from bellhousing. Insert them early and nip everything up in stages, don't tighten the long bellhousing bolts after the sump screws !!!

Post by **dave friday** » 29 Aug 2007, 15:06

Harry,thanks for that,the gudgeon pin is 24mm, i may be wrong in thinking that the pin rock is too much[ clearence limits for the 1600 air cooled engine are0.01 to 0.04mm(0.0004 to 0.0016).I might try to make some sort of wire [round] feeler guage just for interest sake.
Ta.

Post by **dave friday** » 29 Aug 2007, 16:39

Ok i made a feeler out of tin foil [0.01mm thick] and the clearance is 0.03mm so is this ok?.

Post by **dave friday** » 04 Sep 2007, 11:15

I'm still stuck, anyone know where i'm likely to get this info?