From syncro.org's Syncrolist, Tim Smith, a frequent poster of good stuff there...
Ready
Rust, getting tired of fighting it....
Just replaced all of the steel lines for the PS system. The details to help folks out are:
Length of lines: just under 14 feet. (I will shortly post exact lengths, read on)
Dia. of lines:
Low pressure return, original steel line is 12mm outside, this means a 1/2 inch ID hydraulic hose
High pressure , original line is 10mm outside, which takes 3/8 inch ID hose (yes, while I live in a metric-sized Canada we only get hose readily in English sizes)
Got mine from a hydraulics supply house for $1.19 and $1.79 per foot. Specify “single strand"| hose, good for 2200 PSI, still flexible enough to follow original mounts/positions perfectly. Our pumps work at around 1600-1700 PSI, good safety margin.
Clamps: buy 12 quality FI hose clamps, not the cheapo gear clamps. $3 for a pack of four at FLAPS.
The low pressure return could be almost any other reinforced hose, but for oil resistance and the heat generated by the system and very very little additional cost hydraulic hose is far better choice.
Quick Installation: for both lines, use a pipe cutter and cleanly cut steel lines about 3 inches from their fittings on the rack.
For the high pressure line (hose comes directly off the pump and loops rearwards then heads forward) cut the steel pipe where it passes underneath the airfilter, again leaving 3"| of clean pipe. Make sure all pipe is clean and degreased.
Clean up the steel pipes thoroughly, down to shiny solid metal. Minor surface rust will be fine, helps the grip I suspect.
For the low pressure return at the reservoir remove the band clamp and carefully slice along the old hose until it is loose and can be pulled off. Slide the hose directly onto the reservoir and secure with two fuel injection line band clamps, same at the rack end, slip it over the cut off pipe then clamp with two clamps. Factory only uses one gear clamp on reservoir end, your choice.
For the high pressure hose you'll end up splicing it in underneath the air cleaner, so move that out of the way. You can again slide on the new hose, this time use 4 clamps per end, minimum. Note, in extreme rust cases you may not be able to salvage two pipe ends and fitting, check under the sliding door region since there is a “spare"| coupling there on the
high pressure line that fits at either pump or rack end if needed.
OK, that's the quick and dirty fix. Total cost is around $45 BUT I really don't like simply clamping the high pressure ends, as I've had them blow off using cheapo gear clamps (which is why the FI hose-clamps) So... right now I have a JICM hydraulic fitting that is commonly available, spec was 14mm x 3/8. This fitting screws directly into the rack end, once you remove the male-to-male couper that is between the end of the steel pipes and the rack body. I also bought an 18mm x 1/2 fitting for the return line but it is too big. I'm now looking for a 16mm x 1/2 fitting (which may not exist?) I have not (yet!) found a replacement fitting for the high pressure end at the pump.
Now that my hoses are cut to length I'll pull out the high pressure side and go back to the hydraulics shop. At one end I'll get a matching hose end crimped on properly to screw into the JICM fitting and at the other end I'll see if they can properly swage on a collar that will hold the original steel pipe section that then screws into the hose from the pump. In this way I'll have a true high pressure hose with solid clamps at each end.
The JICM couplings are $4.00 each, total cost for a properly made high pressure hose with end fittings would probably be around $35 by the time I'm done.
There isn't any need to do more for the low pressure return line, clamps are fine, and are “factory"| at the reservoir end anyhow.
Why put this out instead of selling kits? Because I'd rather see folks buy and fabricate locally and save money plus eliminate shipping costs.
I'm still seeing “deals"| out there for vanagon owners that really suck in my mind. So if you wait a while and let me get the installation finalized I will provide the exact specs on all fittings, hose lengths etc so you can DIY using your local hydraulics supply house. Installation is easy, once the old stuff is ripped out. Even the flimsy brackets that hold the current lines can be used to hold the new hoses, just bend open, chuck out the rubber mounts (which is why/where the factory lines rust anyhow) and bend them back around the two hoses, near perfect fit.
Bonus: if anyone is puzzling over how to install a MileMarker hydraulic winch or a snowplow lift cylinder, just get a T fitting installed on the high pressure hose about 18"| from the rack end and cap off the extra branch until you lay out the bucks for the accessories.
Perhaps it's time for that hydraulic powered chainsaw you've been dreaming about? (it won't be as simple as this for the installation, you'll
need a flow diverter also, other wise the high pressure fluid will simply zip through the PS rack since that's the path of least resistance)
bye, Tim
Dr. T.J.Smith
looks like I'll have to go the Pirtek route 
if it isn't as simple as that can someone tell me whether its an everyday thing for garages to deal with places like Pirtek ? so any garage would do it for me anyway ?
