Changing Steering Wheel

[stevewright76]

Have a 1982 Type 25 camper which I recently bought in Sheffield.

Previous owner put a mall and quite horid Golf GTI steering wheel on it, with original left in van. I've succeeded in disconnecting horn and wires, undoing lock nut and following full haynes manual steps to get it off - except for the bit where you 'use the palm of your hand to hit the spokes until it comes away from steering column'

I've palmed, bashed, hit, yanked etc and have only got half an inch movement (and radio nearly falling out!) before giving up in furstration and fear of breaking indicator stalks or damaging steering mechanism from using that much force may.

Anyone got any suggestions/tips/tricks on how to actually get it off and loose? Can I cuase any damage to steering olumn by kicking/bashing harder and more if I try again?

[Tex Ritter]

Loosen the nut off but leave it on a couple of threads, grab the wheel at 9 and 3 oclock and alternatively yank up and press down with left and right hands keeping the pressure on all the time it will move...believe me.

If this does not work (but I bet you it will, after all, it is a tapered shaft), have someone belt the underside as near to the boss as possible using a lump of wood and a 4lb lump hammer whilst keeping the upward pressure on. Don't be frightened to give it some welly...and watch your fingers.

I had one of those Golf wheels fitted but it made the steering too heavy and obscured the warning/dash lights, so I binned it.

Tex R

[stevewright76]

Exactly why I want rid of the stupid thing, keep not seeing I've got brights on an not being able to se re light has potential to be ERY expensive!
Thanks for tips - kind of needed confirmation that the welly/hammer appraoch is not going to cause serious probs - will try first technique, then a friend with lumping hammer - you're a star.

Steve

[HarryMann]

Standard wheel's the bizz...

Innit

You just have to make those air brake noises when you're 10 to 2'ing it and you're an HGV driver without having to pass the exams.

[Tex Ritter]

Can't understand the wheel being so tight to get off, I was taking my wheel off regularly to try various other wheels without any problems.

As I said earlier with it having a tapered shaft, once you loosen it, it should fly off, hence the reason for leaving the nut in place...to save your teeth.

Harryman...funny you should say that, I have a HGV class 1 licence, and I still make the air brake noise when in my van.

Tex R

[HarryMann]

Guess you don't have to do the 10 to 2 shuffle in those monsters with power steering today - can you imagine driving a 60's Foden - no, nor can I

[stevewright76]

Can't understand the wheel being so tight to get off, I was taking my wheel off regularly to try various other wheels without any problems.

As I said earlier with it having a tapered shaft, once you loosen it, it should fly off, hence the reason for leaving the nut in place...to save your teeth.

That's what I expected but this one ain't budging, and http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2366 wobbly steering columns make me worried about applying that much force to it...

Will try again next week and see if I can get any joy this time, maybe with WD40 applied...

[HarryMann]

Think Tex was saying it might then be a 2 man job - as jammed splines and tapers and things like this can be .

The BIG guy heaving evenly upwards just as the less big guy delivers a perfectly judged thump with a club hammer (don't even bother thinking about anything less than a 2 pounder). Use a piece of oak or hardwood between the club and the job (pine is a waste of time, just squashes unless 100 years old)..

... a bit like having a puller wound up so tight its about to explode and the part's still not budging, yet a good whack on the end of it - and it loosens.

[stevewright76]

Gonna hav to find a big bloke with a big hammer then!

Dmn, where are Viking raids when you need them?

[HarryMann]

[HarryMann]

... a bit like having a puller wound up so tight its about to explode and the part's still not budging, yet a good whack on the end of it - and it loosens.

In fact, the blow in that case is often down onto the spindle of the puller, so if you can arrange a suitable dolly (hello?) on the nut of the shaft, you might try striking down through the Viking's arms (but watch his chin )

Does that make sense?

Oh WD40 is not a penetrating oil really, PlusGas is the one most rate.. doubt if it will make a jot of difference though...