Engine is cutting out since oil change

[Nicola&Tony]

I'm a total novice when it comes to engines but I'm determined that this is going to change! Currently investigating Haynes, Wiki and previous posts on here about engines cutting out, but whilst I do this someone might be able to save me some time?

I changed the engine oil and oil filter yesterday (15W/40 oil and a Mann filter from GSF). Shortly afterwards whilst driving around locally the engine started cutting out whenever I slowed down for corners and junctions etc.

Same problem today during short local journeys, but happening more frequently now. I've also noticed that after starting the engine when it's hot it won't idle (unless I increase the revs), it just cuts out again. The engine will idle when starting from cold however (but sounds erratic when idling, compared to how it usually sounds). No problems starting the engine each time though.

Didn't have any of these problems before I did the oil change - is this just coincidence or are the two connected? Is dirt in the carburettor or fuel filter the most likely suspect? I'd put £15 of petrol in yesterday morning before the oil change because fuel gauge was just getting onto the red bit.

Haven't taken anything apart yet but had a look round the engine compartment and noticed that the outside of the carburettor is wet compared to the pipes etc around it - could this be petrol getting out of the carb or a pipe somehow (no sign of any deteriorating pipes that I can see at present).

Have also noticed when doing the oil change that we have a coolant leak but can't quite pinpoint where it is coming from but looks like its close to the coolant pump (is that also called the water pump sometimes?) I think this has been happening for a while though, judging by the number of times I've had to top-up the coolant. Probably unrelated to the cutting out problem therefore?

Sorry for the long post. Very grateful for any info

Tony

[Nicola&Tony]

Just worked out how to post a photo, yeh!!!

Tony

[mcalp]

Hi

I would put money on it being dirt in the carb jets, especially as you say the guage was on red and you put fuel in just before your oil change. Try taking the top off the carb and use a bit of tubing to blow down the three jets you will see there.

[Nicola&Tony]

Thanks mcalp I'll give that a go

Tony

[meggles]

Hi you two. From past experience I have found that if you sort of "pretend" to do job again, going through the motions as it were, and taking careful note of any components you may have knocked accidentaly, you may find a damaged part or a component you have loosened or a wire/pipe unclipped. Worth a try. Although I would think you may find that the problem is unrelated to the oil change. By the way, just got back off hols, awning great, ordered repair parts already. Good luck with your repair.

[Nicola&Tony]

I would put money on it being dirt in the carb jets, especially as you say the guage was on red and you put fuel in just before your oil change. Try taking the top off the carb and use a bit of tubing to blow down the three jets you will see there.

I think you've nearly cured it!! I did this twice tonight and on the second attempt I had ten minutes of driving around with no problems (and it felt bliddy great! ) but then I pulled out onto a dual carriageway and went to accelerate but got less power instead of more! Limped along and got off the road onto side streets, lots more cutting out but then it seemed to improve a bit again until I got home five minutes later.

I'll have another go tomorrow, must remember to keep a drinking straw in the van

Cheers

Tony

[Nicola&Tony]

Hi you two. From past experience I have found that if you sort of "pretend" to do job again, going through the motions as it were,

By the way, just got back off hols, awning great, ordered repair parts already. Good luck with your repair.

Thanks for the tip Keith, will keep it in mind! That's good news about the awning, glad its been of use to you

Tony

[coilspring]

Hi,

Might be worth a check as I have had exactly the same problem today: check the connection to the Bypass valve on the front of the carb. it won't idle properly without the 12V feed. Could be it has been disturbed. It's a round cylinder with a male spade connector coming from the centre.

Hope you get it sorted anyway.

[Nicola&Tony]

Thanks coilspring, I'll have a look at that tomorrow. Did you get yours fixed?

Tony

[dalmationman]

I had that on mine once
Which petrol station did u use ? Maybe the fuel is a bit dodgy.
I cured mine by changing the plugs and blowing out the carb jets and filling up with fuel from another station to dilute what was in the tank.
Dont know which thing really cured it because the oil level was too high as well with what looked like diesel oil !
Also, just check you have not put too much oil in because it can foul the plugs easier on a flat 4 engine than it would on a conventional shaped one.
Checking for wires out of place was also a good bit of advice.
One of the main reasons for poor idling ( apart from wrong timing ) is weak mixture caused by air leaks at the carb or manifold.
Spray around the carb and brake servo hose coming out of thecarb with brake cleaner fluid. If it idles better then yoi have found an air leak.

[coilspring]

Well, at least I hope it's fixed (haven't tested it yet in anger) Got a blat across europe planned in 2 weeks in 40 degree heat so slightly nervous. Hope you get it sorted guys.

[coilspring]

Just had a better look at your pics showing the leakage around the carb. I may be hopelessly wrong (someone please correct me) but maybe try disconecting the crankcase breather pipe in case it as been overfilled with oil during the oil change and some of the excess is being forced back down the carb. As I said just a thought

[Rozzo]

hi tony
i think the dampness around the carb is cos theres a bit of dirt in the float needle valve. (thats where the fuel comes into the carb) which is causing the carb to overfill and leak and thus run very rich when hot (same effect as having the choke on with engine hot) when you take the top off the carb,, carefully remove the float and needle and clean thoroughly the needle and the seat it sits in. also check for any petrol inside the floats as they can hole with age and so don't float anymore, so dont force the needle into it's seat,, which also lets petrol overfill the carb. a tiny particle in the needle valve will stop it from sealing as petrol will run through the tiniest gap. dont be tempted to sand the needle as its tapered to seal in it's seat, just clean it with a cloth and blow through the seat to try and remove anything thats in there (you may not even be able to see whats causing it as a grain of sand would cause this problem or more likely a tiny fragment of rubber off the inside of a fuel hose)
good luck with it m8, don't get too high on the fumes.
cheers
julian

[Mocki]

although I can see no reason why you would have had the engine lid off to do a oil and filter change, check the vac advance and other vac pipes, the ones to the air filter box ect.....

aso take a looksee at the big vac pipe off the end of the manifold that goes to the brake servo for leakage.......

and check your petrol filter it could just be water in the fuel if your filler neck has the standard sealage prob lem and is getting wattter in it - they tell me its been damp if you have been in the sundrenched fens this summer......

posted mobile in me shorts

[Rozzo]

just noticed in your first post that you have a coolant leak and since your automatic choke relies on hot water to turn it off it's possible that there could be an airlock in your choke mechanism meaning it's not getting tthe heat so is sticking on? try running it up to temperature from cold with the air filter off so that you can see into the carb, you should see the choke flaps open up as it gets warm i think.
since i dont have a waterleaker perhaps someone else could confirm this?
and have you checked that your air filter isn't blocked?