Temperature Sensor

Post by **mush145** » 04 Jul 2007, 08:54

I need to change the temperature sensor next to the thermostat. If I exchange the parts quickly will it be necessary to re-bleed the system. Would prefer not to but if it is necessary

Post by **mush145** » 08 Jul 2007, 19:09

Well after doing this this afternoon the answer is no, you would have to have some pretty special reactions to get that done. Anyway, since changing the sensors, the dashboard temperature guage still does not work, is there anything else I could check or replace

Post by **Stevie H** » 09 Jul 2007, 12:16

Doing the same myself at the minute. Temp sensor and thermostat on order. Hopefully cure my lack of guage.

Post by **tonytech** » 09 Jul 2007, 13:07

My 2.1 engine has 2 temp senders on the themostat housing, I cant remember which is the temp guage one, I think it has a blue flash.

Check all the connections at the back of the dash, these corrode when (not if) the windscreen leaks.

T

Post by **Mocki** » 09 Jul 2007, 14:26

gauge sender is the one you cant reach towards the front of the van, the other one is the sender for the inj sys brain.

you only loose a cupfull when you change them

if changing the sender makes no difference to the no gauge problem, short the two pins in the plug together and see if it goes upand makes the light flash, if not its a wiring problem, they get brittle and go high resistance because of the constance hot cold ness of being right nr the zorst......

Post by **Stevie H** » 09 Jul 2007, 22:31

I'm now thinking I wont tackle this before going away. I mean, I've driven the van for the last year without problem. Leave well enough alone? What I will do though is jack the front of the van up and make sure the rad is bled and water is pumping that far.

Post by **mininut** » 09 Jul 2007, 22:34

Had a similar problem myself. Turned out to be the big multipin connector behind the instrument panel. The terminal for the gauge was slightly lower than the rest and not making proper contact so, it was very carefully prised upwards and it now all works a treat. Took some bliddy finding though

.

Post by **Stevie H** » 09 Jul 2007, 22:36

mininuts wrote:Had a similar problem myself. Turned out to be the big multipin connector behind the instrument panel. The terminal for the gauge was slightly lower than the rest and not making proper contact so, it was very carefully prised upwards and it now all works a treat. Took some bliddy finding though .

Did that last night in work.

Post by **mush145** » 17 Jul 2007, 08:52

Replaced both of the sensors and when running on the drive nothing. Which was a bit disappointing. Been in Devon for the week and on the first run down the sensor worked straight away, so probably only needed a run out. Only concern I have now is that previously the guage ran at half way and now it runs at 3/4. I am currently putting this down to the fact that the new sensor is more sensitive is there anything else I should check?

Post by **HarryMann** » 17 Jul 2007, 09:37

If it sits there constant and engine seems fine and fan doesn't come on all the time, then probablty OK, innit?

Sure you oput the correct part no. in the gauge sender position

Post by **hammy44** » 17 Jul 2007, 11:47

the needle on my 2.1 sits just right off the red warning light sort of between 1/2 and 3/4

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 17 Jul 2007, 12:40

does any one know what the actual temperature/pressure of the coolant should be (and at what physical point)

Post by **HarryMann** » 17 Jul 2007, 13:55

At the radiator, about half way up where the Dual thermo (251 959 481 K) Switch sits:

1st Stage fan... On: 87C ~ Off 76C
2nd stage fan... On: 93C ~ Off 82C

I was always told that the water temp (head) wants to be 90C~95C.. for efficient running (and lack of condensation).

Obviously under pressure systems can go slightly above 100C without vapour forming.

Mineral Oil 115~120C max. Synthetic 130C max

Cyl Head temp: 240C (under plug or in tempwell)