Last night we had the 1.9dg replacement engine ticking over nicely, all ready for a test run.
HOWEVER on final inspection it was noticed that the bolt between the head and the exhaust has a sheared head + part of the head has been chipped off in the past (thus leaving limited thread) - Consequently i have ONE of the problems that existed with my old engine- effectively a bolt sheared off in the head and thus a blowing exhaust and less fuel efficient engine (but this time part of the head is chipped!)
Sorry if my technical terms don't make any sense, maybe photos will explain a bit better.
Opinions regarding the best way to resolve this would be much appreciated, thanks Joe
[IMG:800:600]http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c103/ ... 0251-1.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c103/ ... 210250.jpg[/img][/img]
Replacement engine/exhaust/sheared bolts in head woes...
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- SplendiferousII
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Right the first question has to be - can you get to it? Could you get a drill in there and square if need be?
Is the threaded hole deeper than the bit that broken out? - can you simply fit a longer stud? (use a stud / threaded bar as it will be better in the long run.
If the hole is not any deeper than we can see, can you drill it any deeper and simply tap it to get a good full thread - and hence use a longer stud?
Is the threaded hole deeper than the bit that broken out? - can you simply fit a longer stud? (use a stud / threaded bar as it will be better in the long run.
If the hole is not any deeper than we can see, can you drill it any deeper and simply tap it to get a good full thread - and hence use a longer stud?
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really need to remove exhaust pipe out of the way and see how much thread you have sticking above the head level. Then I would weld a nut over the remaining thread to remove it. The heat from the welded nut will normally help remove stud. Then I would fit new stud and perhaps apply a touch of thread lock to make sure it could not come out. Looks and sounds quite tricky but should work o.k. Good luck.
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just run with it blowing abit and forget about it for the summer at least, all vw campers are noisey anyway. once you start going down the route of removing the exhaust you will realise the other bolts and nuts too are seized, rusted off, then it is engine out and a man in to fix it.
I am personally going to wait until the autumn and then may take on the job as a winter project and replace the exhaust, after drilling a tapping the rusted exhaust clamps + replace all the damaged tinware, and push rod tube, as if I dont have any repair bandage on my same section of exhaust manifold I have a 2mm gap where the manifold has cracked in half.
I am personally going to wait until the autumn and then may take on the job as a winter project and replace the exhaust, after drilling a tapping the rusted exhaust clamps + replace all the damaged tinware, and push rod tube, as if I dont have any repair bandage on my same section of exhaust manifold I have a 2mm gap where the manifold has cracked in half.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
- SplendiferousII
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Is the stud still in there? Looks to me like its burst out and we are just looking at the threaded hole?
But as Big Red Bus says welding a nut to the remaining bit of stud is the best and most professional way to do the job.
The sign of a man who knows how to do a job that. Not many of us left you know.
But as Big Red Bus says welding a nut to the remaining bit of stud is the best and most professional way to do the job.
The sign of a man who knows how to do a job that. Not many of us left you know.
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I am a big fan of araldite and liquid metal, the liquid metal is holding one of my gearbox studs into the engine and the araldite is stopping all the oil leaking out the push rod tube I drilled through whilst trying to drill out the sheared gearbox stud. balance the stud in the gap and smother it.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..