Paint Your Wagon - with a roller!
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Yes, It will go on wood, plastic or fiberglass too - allegedly. The WIKI will be updated shortly with all these recent notes.
I may try a spare VW wing mirror if you like, to see how well it holds.
The only thing I can say is give it a go yourself on an old washing machine or an old VW door. Just make sure you've thinned it enough and follow the WIKI. If you flat back (and its not THAT hard work) between coats leaving at least a weeks drying time (ideally more) between layers, you'll see just how good the finish can be.
I've decided that rather than a final flat and polish, I'm going to apply a very thin top coat (around 30% thinners min). I figure this will create that final skin which should leave only minor tidying up to complete the job.
As each week passes (and I'm temporarily sidetracked by working on my sisters house) the paint gets tougher and tougher. Rain is shrugged off completely. Its almost like a teflon finish - one of the reasons why a final thin coat appeals rather than polishing it back as advocated.
I may try a spare VW wing mirror if you like, to see how well it holds.
The only thing I can say is give it a go yourself on an old washing machine or an old VW door. Just make sure you've thinned it enough and follow the WIKI. If you flat back (and its not THAT hard work) between coats leaving at least a weeks drying time (ideally more) between layers, you'll see just how good the finish can be.
I've decided that rather than a final flat and polish, I'm going to apply a very thin top coat (around 30% thinners min). I figure this will create that final skin which should leave only minor tidying up to complete the job.
As each week passes (and I'm temporarily sidetracked by working on my sisters house) the paint gets tougher and tougher. Rain is shrugged off completely. Its almost like a teflon finish - one of the reasons why a final thin coat appeals rather than polishing it back as advocated.
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Ok, last week Rob and I laid a coat of this paint (white) on his Aircooled camper. He'll tell you it takes a few minutes to get a 'feel' for how to apply it with the roller, but there were two of us on the day, each chasing the other ones odd mistakes - worked well. We covered the whole camper in under two hours.. Hopefully he'll login and give you his version of how the day went but I think he's sold on rollering now.
Also, as I haven't had time to lay the fourth coat on mine, I decided to flat a small area and buff it to a gloss to see how good a finish I can actually get on a rollered van. Trust me, its BETTER than a spray job and everyone who has seen the buffed patch has been astounded!!!
Also, as I haven't had time to lay the fourth coat on mine, I decided to flat a small area and buff it to a gloss to see how good a finish I can actually get on a rollered van. Trust me, its BETTER than a spray job and everyone who has seen the buffed patch has been astounded!!!
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Both myself and my neighbour (who has a white panel for work and pleasure) will be using this method later in the year.
Nick
Nick
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Ok, for those who mocked the idea of rollering a van, heres two photos of a flatted and buffed area after four coats (had to wipe todays rain off so you can see it - rain beads on this paint notice):
Make your own mind up but clearly with work it can equal if not surpass spraying. The finish you see in these photos of the front of mine is BETTER than the original spray finish on Rob's Californian!
For the record I flatted it back with pound shop 600 grade wet & dry paper and polished out with pound shop brass cleaner!!! Rob and I are keen devotees of our local pound shops and it has kept the cost of a total repaint under fifty pounds including, wet and dry, masking tape, rollers etc.
The final result using the dutch-manufactured rustoleum paint (see WIKI for full explanation) is a great rust deterrent and if I do ever get a scratch (as happened last week), I simply run the roller over it again - job done.
Next coat we do we'll video exactly how we do it all!
Make your own mind up but clearly with work it can equal if not surpass spraying. The finish you see in these photos of the front of mine is BETTER than the original spray finish on Rob's Californian!
For the record I flatted it back with pound shop 600 grade wet & dry paper and polished out with pound shop brass cleaner!!! Rob and I are keen devotees of our local pound shops and it has kept the cost of a total repaint under fifty pounds including, wet and dry, masking tape, rollers etc.
The final result using the dutch-manufactured rustoleum paint (see WIKI for full explanation) is a great rust deterrent and if I do ever get a scratch (as happened last week), I simply run the roller over it again - job done.
Next coat we do we'll video exactly how we do it all!
Last edited by CovKid on 25 May 2007, 13:09, edited 1 time in total.
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Awesome, just awesome!
Nick
Nick
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- chickenkoop
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Taken today:
ChickenKoop (Rob) rollering his camper with Rustoleum Combicolor. As he'll tell you, after 20 mins using the paint, you really get a feel for it!
A great tip is have someone stand around while you're rollering to spot runs or roller lines. It gives you time to catch them before they start to dry off! This was a luxury I didn't have when I painted mine.
ChickenKoop had really got the hang of the way the paints moves by the end of today and he actually went round the van three times with paint as it was dry enough for subsequent coats by the time he'd done one lap.
Heres my bus on the left that started this whole thread (most read thread on 80/90 now) and ChickenKoop's on the right - and not a spraygun in sight!
ChickenKoop (Rob) rollering his camper with Rustoleum Combicolor. As he'll tell you, after 20 mins using the paint, you really get a feel for it!
A great tip is have someone stand around while you're rollering to spot runs or roller lines. It gives you time to catch them before they start to dry off! This was a luxury I didn't have when I painted mine.
ChickenKoop had really got the hang of the way the paints moves by the end of today and he actually went round the van three times with paint as it was dry enough for subsequent coats by the time he'd done one lap.
Heres my bus on the left that started this whole thread (most read thread on 80/90 now) and ChickenKoop's on the right - and not a spraygun in sight!
Jenny wouldn't stop talking about rollering our Doka on the way up to PC52's at Northampton today - Mmm... must start to think about a repaint soon. Dropsides though must be brushed?
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1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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Dropsides (from memory) have more crevices. You can use a foam brush in the hard to reach areas then run the roller over the rest. I do have a short video clip of ChickenKoop rollering his if admin have a place for it somewhere? Its about 4MB.
Both ChickenKoop and I can't recommend enough that you practice on an old car door first. It gives you a real advantage since you'll discover just how it works in practice, how to remove roller lines, catch runs etc.
We still feel this is a brilliant cost-effective way (for under fifty pounds) to spruce up a tired bus and even the unflatted finish will be acceptable to most. Purists can flat and polish as and when they have spare hours etc. It can definately match or exceed a top spray job if you want to put in the time.
Both ChickenKoop and I can't recommend enough that you practice on an old car door first. It gives you a real advantage since you'll discover just how it works in practice, how to remove roller lines, catch runs etc.
We still feel this is a brilliant cost-effective way (for under fifty pounds) to spruce up a tired bus and even the unflatted finish will be acceptable to most. Purists can flat and polish as and when they have spare hours etc. It can definately match or exceed a top spray job if you want to put in the time.