Got an Aircooled 2Ltr 1982 T25 that has no temperature gauge. Going Cornwall in it over the summer and I'm paranoid about getting stuck in traffic and having it overheat without me knowing until its too late...
Can I install a temp gauge and if so hows best to go about it? If not, is there a way to tell engine is overheating before it dies?!
Also, is the seal on the engine cover important? A mate suggested the seal is important to create pressure in the engine bay to get air into the engine is this correct?
Temperature Gauge
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Poddington
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Temperature Gauge
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the seal in the engine bay is there to stop heat getting above the tinware i think. probably aids airflow too but don't worry if its damaged.
the Aircooled never had a temp guage but some fit them in the oil circuit. the oil will run hotter than water boiling point all the time i think.
just go to cornish and stop worrying. they're designed to run nice and toasty
the Aircooled never had a temp guage but some fit them in the oil circuit. the oil will run hotter than water boiling point all the time i think.
just go to cornish and stop worrying. they're designed to run nice and toasty
LT owner and positively rattling around with the new found space
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slobbo
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The seal is essential in an Aircooled. You shouldn't have any gaps, holes etc between the engine bay and the exhaust. The engine above the tinware should be warm not roasting even after a long run. Also make sure you have enough oil in the engine. It's a combination of the oil and airflow that keeps everything cool.
Basically the cooling works by drawing air from the engine bay through the fan in the front of the engine, over the cylinders and out underneath the van. If you have gaps in the tinware the hot air from the exhaust is drawn through the fan instead of cool air. Doesn't do much for the cooling. Nought to do with air pressure.
Basically the cooling works by drawing air from the engine bay through the fan in the front of the engine, over the cylinders and out underneath the van. If you have gaps in the tinware the hot air from the exhaust is drawn through the fan instead of cool air. Doesn't do much for the cooling. Nought to do with air pressure.
Cheers
Rob.
You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough.
1987 2.9 litre VR6 powered Syncro - Westy wannabe.
My site - My obsession - http://www.aircooledcrazy.com
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Rob.
You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough.
1987 2.9 litre VR6 powered Syncro - Westy wannabe.
My site - My obsession - http://www.aircooledcrazy.com
VW Xmas cards - http://www.ceinwen.co.uk
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Poddington
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toomanytoys
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actually in traffic, it prob will be running cool.. its under load and not reving that causes them to overheat.. ie 4th gear at 40mph up hill..
Top tip... when you have been bombing along on a run.. when you pull off to stop for fuel etc.. let the engine run on a fast tickover for a minute or 2.. this will cool the engine down enough so as not to get "heat soak", always a good move on any Aircooled..
Also check you oil cooler is clean, these get covered in dust and grime and block the airflow.
You can get a temp gauge for the cylinder head.. the sensor type that fits under the sparkplug is best, when the temp goes up.. back off the throttle to allow the heads to cool.. oil temp senders are not so good on the type4 engine
Top tip... when you have been bombing along on a run.. when you pull off to stop for fuel etc.. let the engine run on a fast tickover for a minute or 2.. this will cool the engine down enough so as not to get "heat soak", always a good move on any Aircooled..
Also check you oil cooler is clean, these get covered in dust and grime and block the airflow.
You can get a temp gauge for the cylinder head.. the sensor type that fits under the sparkplug is best, when the temp goes up.. back off the throttle to allow the heads to cool.. oil temp senders are not so good on the type4 engine