Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Moving on we have the new load bed with cab protector in place for trial fitting/adjustment:
And one of the tricky bits I decided on, the remodelled engine hatch:
And here's another modified part. An alternative to the standard engine access hatch:
It's an idea I have toyed with since I got the Syncro. I changed my mind a few times and even nearly sold the Caddy panel once. Sense prevailed though and here it is.
The number plate needs relocating but again, there is a cunning plan in progress for that too [;)]
Andy had to put a lot of time into this as it wasn't simply a case of welding one flat panel to another. The Doka hatch actually curves. Couple that with the fillet along that top edge and you are in for some steady metal bashing. Worth it though I reckon.
Last edited by poshbuggers on 14 May 2007, 18:43, edited 1 time in total.
'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
)
Ok, its in for lots of primer and rubbing down now. One side is pretty good, the other has more than a few dents along it.
Andy has given 80% of it a first 'round' with the DA which hasn't shown any nasties, just some minor dips which he is attending to very patiently.
The engine access hatch has now been fitted and looks even better than I expected in primer.
I'm working on the relocated number plate mount at the moment. No further modifications to the metalwork (don't quote me) so it's all steam ahead for more prep and a basecoat.
'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
)
Hello Brian ! It is not necessary to remove the bed to replace the side panels - it is easier though - but once you change the entire rear end such as side panels, wheel arches and rear corners you have good access to all welding spots. It is a pain in the ass if you want to drill off and re-install the existing bed... But like Paul`s project shows - there is still an amount of rust under the bed - so sandblasting could be one option.
Hello Brian ! It is not necessary to remove the bed to replace the side panels - it is easier though - but once you change the entire rear end such as side panels, wheel arches and rear corners you have good access to all welding spots. It is a pain in the ass if you want to drill off and re-install the existing bed... But like Paul`s project shows - there is still an amount of rust under the bed - so sandblasting could be one option.
Might save a bit of work if the loadbed can stay in! I wasn't intending to remove the rear panel as it's in good condition so hopefully when we take the side panels off we'll have a better idea how to proceed.
It's pretty much how the Syncro will look for a while, but I do have plans for a more outrageous cage/bullbar/rack system which I hope to sort towards the end of the year.
The setup pictured will do while I get solid measurements and will suffice for my annual excursion to Germany in August.
Got the canvas/frame and roofrack sorted, just a bullbar to arrange now.
'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
)
Cool..
Shall have to do my floor too.. its a lot worse than yours sounded! just patched and covered with marine ply so it can be used... So many other bits to fix, but it keeps running... 28k km since July last year....
I rather like those marine ply loadbeds, you can shovel stuff onto and off them easier
Trouble is, bits keep getting in that silly hollow section behind the bumper, through those stuppid elongated holes - must do a fix for shovelling "pooh"