JR hydraulic tappets bleed question
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JR hydraulic tappets bleed question
Have a m2 golf 1.6td JR engine in the van.I have a noisy tappet it takes a while before it stops tapping ie engine needs a run to get hot before it stops.If i replace the hydro tappets for new can any one advice the procedure for pumping the buckets up with oil before fitting.Thanks
- tonytech
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I'm sure some clever bugger will drop in shortly and give a better answer.
This might be better in the alternative engine section.
I'm sure I've read about the ' noisy tappet syndrome caused by the angle of the engine in the T25'
T
This might be better in the alternative engine section.
I'm sure I've read about the ' noisy tappet syndrome caused by the angle of the engine in the T25'
T
There are 10 kinds of people. those who understand Binary and those who dont
- toomanytoys
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I changed the oil to 15x40 semi synthetic + new filter. Been looking at a T4 forum which said high mileage hydraulic tappets can make this noise.The hydro buckets are not like a 2ltr cu there is no clip to remove to fill them.I suppose they are kept under engine oil and compressed a few times to fill up.I'm sure I've read about the ' noisy tappet syndrome caused by the angle of the engine in the T25' .That might be one reason.
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I would agree i should have put this in the alternative engine forum.But i can answer my own question .GSF supply a engine set of hydro tappets i inquired to ask about bleeding them .They very helpfully telephoned a VW trained technician/mechanic who said the tappets are pre filled with oil.Adviced take it easy on the revs when newly fitted on first engine start.
- fairwynds
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rattling tappets can be dealt with by:
1) Oil change - correct grade
2) Filter change - correct filter with the internal valve/flow 'widget' (that the cheapies often dont have!
3) If you want to go the whole hog - remove and clean up tappets (or replace if needed) - the dissassembly of em is easy, but you will need a vice to reassemble.
These pics (1900 DG) might help....
All taken apart (keep them in their respective orders AND replace in same places!!!!)

Compressing tappet - having filled with oil, piston goes in and a suitable bolt is used to slooooowly compress.

After filling with oil and rebuilding them, keep the under bath of oil till needed.

1) Oil change - correct grade
2) Filter change - correct filter with the internal valve/flow 'widget' (that the cheapies often dont have!
3) If you want to go the whole hog - remove and clean up tappets (or replace if needed) - the dissassembly of em is easy, but you will need a vice to reassemble.
These pics (1900 DG) might help....
All taken apart (keep them in their respective orders AND replace in same places!!!!)

Compressing tappet - having filled with oil, piston goes in and a suitable bolt is used to slooooowly compress.

After filling with oil and rebuilding them, keep the under bath of oil till needed.

1.9 DG Bilbos 'Arragon' Hitop LPG'd by Gasure
1.9 TDi Golf Mk4 Estate
Member no 3288
1.9 TDi Golf Mk4 Estate
Member no 3288
- wasserleaker
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if you mean, how to fill the new tappet with oil before fitting, this is what i was advised to do by an engine rebuilder, and i have had no tappet noise since, and i changed all 8 of em when rebuilding my engine,
simply pump the tappet full of oil thru the hole in the side,hole upwards, using an oil can with a nozzle until you cant get any more in, you'll know this when firm pressure can't compress the plunger.
this was on a 2.1 waterboxer but the theory is good for any hyd. tappet.
simply pump the tappet full of oil thru the hole in the side,hole upwards, using an oil can with a nozzle until you cant get any more in, you'll know this when firm pressure can't compress the plunger.
this was on a 2.1 waterboxer but the theory is good for any hyd. tappet.