Can gear box seals be done in situ?

Big lumps of metals and spanners.

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

This usually gets them gits out... :wink:

http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Gener ... _extractor


... in seconds flat!

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Keith
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Post by The_blue »

Disaster!! i've got the wrong part!!

Where can a get one for thursday? (or pick up today?)

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Post by HarryMann »

Oops!

think you want a couple of 091 301 189

Email Beaker, he may well have them in stock...

See...
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139845

Alt. phone Simon Baxter at the Brickwerks

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Post by Horza »

Beaker certainly did have them, hope I didn't use his last.

By far the best method of getting the git faced nasty seal out was the destroy enough of it to get a good grip on the metal with the mole grips then twis and heave. The twisting gets outer seal away from the face of the hole. Swearing helps lots too. I found the seal puller a nightmare and likely to mark the surounding gearbox if not used very carefully.
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Post by toomanytoys »

Maybe Beaker could do a "how to" as he is the resident gearbox expert and would be prefered supplier of parts or service also... :wink:

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Post by wasserleaker »

cumbriankeith . . .
the cv grease goes thin because g'box oil gets past the damaged/reused seal and mixes with the grease, thinning it and reducing the life of your cv joint.
seals are cheaper than a cv joint! dont try to re use something which was only designed to work once, i say.
if the old one fell out [one of mine did too, and that cv had runny grease in it too!]its ready for replacing.

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We're weeping, both the box and me

Post by cumbriankeith »

Yes wasserleaker I can see the logic in all that.

Now much to my irritation there is still a slight drip from the low point on the box - but not from the output shafts nor the drain plug and I have yet to determine exactly where from - my best guess is that the casting has gone very slightly porous and the oil is weeping thro there - anyone got any experience of this being plausible? I'm only guessing cos I seem to remember my tame local transmission specialist, who rebuilt it, mentioned this as a possibility...
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Post by HarryMann »

Keith,

'tis I suppose possible on an early one, but I'd put a spanner on the bellhousing to main transaxle casting bolts all around, as have found these loose before and on one T25, oil had leaked out and the box wrecked due to interior dryness!

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Post by The_blue »

Got the bits today. Made the tool ar seen in haynes and it kinda works (had to start it moving with the chisel and lump hammer!!)

Rest was easy :)

see you all at bustypes i hope :)


Forgot to add, i could only get 2.5 litres of oil in the box (CU engine and old style 4 speed box)

That sound right?

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Post by HarryMann »

Keith will know when he reads this... if 'tis right amount.

Certainly later boxes don't drain fully down when in situ, that may be it...

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Post by cumbriankeith »

Hmm - not too sure of capacity - I didn't fully drain mine and my drive is on a slight slope in my favour - I certainly didn't put more than a couple of litres back in before it overflowed. Sorry I can't be more help but I do remember putting nearly 3.5 litres in it after it had been rebuilt and was therefore effectively "dry"
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Post by The_blue »

Quick update....

Gear seal done using the tool made in haynes manual. (had to start it turning with a screwdriver wedged in the clamp and striking the clamp/driver with a cold chisel and lump hammer. (took 6 god blows to start it moving 1/2 a mm.

Quick run around and no new oil!!


45 miles to bustypes and pulled over to find a steady stream of oil pouring out under the engine!!!


Guessing i had 2 leaks :(

Oh well, start again monday! Oh the fun of saving a rusty bus from the scrapper :).


I know more about this in 6 weeks than i have ever known about my mundano and i've had that 3 years!!

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