Just replaced engine

Post by **stom** » 06 Mar 2007, 14:30

Just replaced engine 2lt AC. (tthank you to the seller from here) Ploblems with the old one will (may) be sorted in time. Im quite shore every thing is in the right place, thanks to Wiki. But it wont start.

All plugs fire, petrol is in the cylinders and its all turning.

Im not a mechanic but i'd have a gues at timing?

there doesnt seem to be marking that youd expect. how can i get around this probem.

Tom

Post by **ermie571** » 06 Mar 2007, 14:47

Tom,
Glad to hear that it went in ok!

Did you put the dizzy in the right way around?...it could be 180 degrees out. On the stock dizzy I think there is a marking for no. 1. (there is a black plastic collar which has a notch in it which lines up with the notch on he dizzy body I think) Someone more knowledgeable will be along soon I'm sure

oh --- and dip the oil!!! I didn't drain it before sending, but as you know I didn't give it a service before you had it. Oil change would therefore be good (if you haven't already done it!)

Nearly there!
Emma

Post by **stom** » 06 Mar 2007, 16:54

dont know what you said, but it suddenly decided it liked the gear box!

i think the problem i am having is knowing when i have tdc on No1

can this be done without a timin scale?

Tom

Post by **fairwynds** » 06 Mar 2007, 17:21

Its an old trick but,
ease the alternator/fan belt a tad, then remove plug from cyl you want at tdc, put a rod (better still a thin wooden rod, ie a thin paintbrush handle or something) down bore (DONT LET IT GO!) and as you rotate the crank pulley you will feel when youve hit top of stroke.
Make sure you get it on the compression stroke tho, not the exhaust one!

Im sure someone will have a better ide shortly....

oh, and did you set up valves/pushrods properly (settled in their 'cups' both end then adjuster screw in til JUST touching, the two full turns more?

Post by **Rozzo** » 06 Mar 2007, 21:07

fairwynds wrote: oh, and did you set up valves/pushrods properly (settled in their 'cups' both end then adjuster screw in til JUST touching, the two full turns more?

i dont think he'll need to check them as he's stuck a complete engine in out of another van and hasn't disturbed them?

Post by **stom** » 07 Mar 2007, 10:46

Cheers emma, was going to ask you that,

thanks for the trick on the timing, i found tdc by advancing piston onto pencil, marking on fan and casing, then adv passed tdc and reversing piston on to pencil and marking again. tdc is between these marks.

So the dizzy fitted and the cap correctly, there is no reason for it not to start, timing wise. Correct?

Tom

Post by **stom** » 07 Mar 2007, 11:22

Oh, and its not starting.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 07 Mar 2007, 13:25

Check you have fuel getting through,
check you actually have a spark at the spark plug,
re check you have fitted the leads to the correct positions..
If the distributor has been out then you need to make sure its in the correct position.. get a manual.....

On another note (You shouldnt need to look at these yet, especially as it was a runner before)
DO NOT, set the valves using the 2 turns method.. this INCORRECT..
1/2 (half) turn from just touching is enough..

Post by **stom** » 07 Mar 2007, 18:07

is petrol smell on the plugs enough to say that theres petrol geting through.
and is the way i found tdc suitable

is the notch on the dizzy body supposed to line up with the end of the rotor arm that conects with the ht lead

Post by **fairwynds** » 07 Mar 2007, 18:15

Toomanytoys

why two turns not correct?
Thats what the good book says, and thats what my VW man says?
Just askin...?

Post by **toomanytoys** » 08 Mar 2007, 08:30

This should now be in another thread...
2 turns was found to be incorrect, even VW apparently discovered this, too late... and issued a service buletin.. this is what I have got from some american forums concerning the Bentley official manual..

Also Boston Bob (American wbx specialist) has a good feature about it on his website..

I reset mine 6 years ago and rarely now do I get a clattery valve etc... and from a mechanical point of view, there is far less strain on the valve train and the adjuster, the adjuster also can bleed itself far more effectively if it does leak..