rear wheel bearing cases

[dalmationman]

Anybody done this ?
Know how big a job it is or how expensive ?
I know Phade has done it and cost him £400, thanks for the info Phade.
Just wondered how common it is because my rear wheel bearings are banging a bit when the van is first used, seems to quieten down after a few miles
Unfortunately I am not mistaking it for tappet knock on cold because the noise only comes when the vans rolling along

[HarryMann]

If you mean doing the rear wheel bearings, then its not that expensive, just a fair bit of work

Bearings and seals from GSF, about £25?

Checkout the wiki on backplates, getting them off, might need repairing or ne, now they';re expensive so v. careful getting them off

http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Brakes_Rear_Backplate

Ditto the bearing housing, care getting it off, care removing and refitting bearings, etc.

Generally part of a complete brake, backplate and wheel bearing service.

It won't be the bearing housing or bearings clicking though, surely?
Inner or outer CVJ, but not the bearings unless they're really falling to pieces (they tend to hold up well unless the big nut hasn't been fully torqued upon refit).

New drums isn't bad idea with new shoes, see Brakes section for wear/lip/step limit for drum, badly stepped they can be awkward to remove, but always possible. A spring set is worth having too if doing brakes at same time, GSF cheap (£10 for both sides).

See special tools section for getting the big nut off easily... EMPI tool

http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Gener ... ut_spanner

[Westy.Club.Joker]

CV joint probs are alot more common than wheel bearings going. Have you checked that the allen bolts are tight at both ends?

[dalmationman]

Did give the allen bolts a tweak and they wouldn't move.
I was only using a short key though so not much torque going on.
Is there a torque setting to set the tightness against ?

[trundletruc]

When rear wheel bearing go, they tend to rumble as you go along and if you jack up the wheel and turn it round you will feel the roughness. If you think it is the bearings because there is some slack in the bearings, felt by rocking the wheel in and out at top and bottom, there usually is quite a bit of slack with good bearings that have done a few miles.

The knocking is probably the CV joints.

Trundletruc

[HarryMann]

Is there a torque setting to set the tightness against ?

There's a torque setting for almost every nut and bolt on the T25

If they're hex headed, 28 ft-lb if they're the 12 ppoint spline drives can take them 30 or 32 max...

What peeps are saying is the joints are probably worn, knocking.. have you checked them for play?

[dalmationman]

Is knocking CV joints serious, can I drive it like this for a while or is something going to fail or get worse because of the wear ?
Big job to do ? Cost, experience needed .
No, I haven't checked them for play, what's the best way to do that ?
Thanks

[HarryMann]

Not dangerous unless you can't hear yourself speak they're that loud

Not big job. GSF about £20 each incl grease and new bolts(don't throw the old thin serrated washers away, or the C-rings washers)

Sounds like you're not aware of the club80-90 Wikipedia?

Many of these common questions are answered there.

http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Main_Page

[dalmationman]

Yep, just had a look at Wiki.
seems like one of those jobs that cost £40 for parts, and then another £40 for cleaning up stuff and replacement clothes, carpets, kitchen sink cleaner etc etc

[HarryMann]

No, no, don't try to rebuild a bad one, GSF, £20~£25, straight exhange, just plenty of vinyl gloves & overalls on when packing it with the Moly grease, fit to shaft first, pack both side with grease (thoroughly), change gloves, fit boot and bolt up to flange, tightening in stages and using those small serrated washes if you have them.

Grab shaft and try to rattle it up/down; side to side to tocheck for wear, inners go, outers rarely, but check them as well. If you squeeze the boot to get grease back in the joint, and they quieten down, then thats them alright, and will need doing sometime soon.

[phade]

Hi everyone,

I have already gone down the replace the wheel bearing and check the driveshaft and cv joints route. The driveshaft and it's CV joints themselves in my case were not the cause.

I had already replaced the wheel bearings on both sides once and the rear N/S wheel bearing lasted about 200 miles before the same thing happened again (banging noises coming from the rear N/S wheel bearing). Both wheel bearings felt like brand new initially and the rear O/S wheel bearing still felt like brand new after the rear N/S wheel bearing went.

Check the CV joints first., especially if one of the CV boots are split and dropping grease everywhere. If that is the case, then examine the ball bearings inside each CV joint for excessive wear and scoring. Replacements are available from Just Kampers for about 30 quid each new.

Also check for the correct number of bolts on the CV joints and make sure that they are tightened correctly after you have checked/replaced the CV joints.

If the driveshaft and it's CV joints turn out to be fine, then you will have no other option but to replace the wheel bearing case and it's spacer. I would also seriously recommend that you examine the wheel bearing case's axle half shaft for excessive wear and burrs. If in doubt, replace them all !!

Second hand (usually good) half shafts are available from Megabug for 25 quid from what I remember. Check the replacement axle half shaft thoroughly before you fit it onto the van.

I would only buy brand new wheel bearing cases (and spacer) for safety reasons (you wouldn't want a wheel flying off, would you ??). Think of it this way, it would be futile for example to replace old (chaffed) seat belts with second hand ones.

I hope this will help everyone.

[Ian Hulley]

Having just done ours with Marcus it's quite a job ... although (fortunately) ours came off and went back on again easily.

To check for play in a wheel bearing you hold the wheel diagonally and feel for movement,spin it and try it again. There may be a tiny amount of in and out 'float' on the back ones, this is reasonably OK. Any side to side movement is new bearings time ... IF the hub retaining nut is tightened to the specific torque then backed off to the next split-pin hole. You didn't overtighten the hub last time did you ?

Be prepared for the job to 'escalate' .... remember,you're stripping the brake shoes,back plate assembly,bearing hub. The words 'worms' 'of' and 'can' spring to mind. Have a spare set of wheels and your wallet close to hand

If it's a clicking noise my money would still be on a worn CV joint though.

Ian.

[HarryMann]

the wheel bearing case and it's spacer

1) the spacers are hardened steel, accurately ground, and not found one short of spec. yet, and don't come with bearing sets, do they? No harm in changing it, but only if masures up short or really fretted, on the end faces. VW only part? or do JK do them with bearings?

2) Never heard of bearing cases? Is this a new (yukspeak) way of describing a roller bearing (race) or a substitute for beraing housing - how the world changes

[phade]

I would normally call it the wheel bearing housing but some people didn't know what I was on about (eg. one of my workm8s) until I mentioned wheel bearing case. It's just another name for the same part.

From what I remember, JK only sell the wheel bearing sets (inner and outer bearings along with both seals).

[HarryMann]

So have you found any damaged ones, perhaps with the outer races moving in the 'case', or with the spacer worn?

Its worth mentioning that rear wheel end-float can occur even with new bearings. One of my vehciles has a bit of axial play, and its been mentioned by others thats its nothing to worry about too much, as long as theres no radial or rock in the bearings.
I should think that could cause a clonk, one changing cornering from one direction to another.