no power

Post by **apples** » 03 Dec 2006, 06:26

hi im vinc i own a t25 auto sleeper its a 86 100k on the clock drives great on the flat but uphill it looses power it a1900cc from seventy to 15.20miles ph once i hit a hill on the a30 i have to use my hazzard a lot to warn other drivers its that slow also somtimes i hear rattelling like tappets on some days then other days it fine i no there slow on hills but this one take the p..s can any one give me any info thanx

Post by **airhead** » 03 Dec 2006, 08:26

Its possible that your dizzy isnt advancing properly. Check your vacuum line and check inside the dizzy to make sure all is well.

Post by **apples** » 03 Dec 2006, 22:17

thanx

Post by **Bee** » 03 Dec 2006, 22:33

sorry to hijack, i'm having exactly the same thing with hills....... the difference being the engine is only getting 100 on compression test. am curious if it could be the same thing or just coz it's a very worn engine?

Post by **DiscoDave** » 03 Dec 2006, 22:42

most probable is the vac advance/retard. other things to check are plugs and cap, coil, fuel filter! imho it's related to cornwall!! i had this problem all the way to and whilst in cornwall in may! touch wood no bother since! didn't even lift the lid!!

Post by **HarryMann** » 03 Dec 2006, 23:38

Yes the further South West you go, the lower the compression gets, something to do with the Coriolis effect and the Cornish piskies don't help, definitely take the pizz out of any electricity in the spark plugs, and have been known to plug up vac pipes too... they're real suckers

But agree with above that a good idea to make sure the vacuum adv/retard is working as it should... if retard not working I wouldn't drive it up hills too often, change down gears early or get it fixed quick.

Cheers

Post by **toomanytoys** » 04 Dec 2006, 09:08

Could also be the second choke isnt opening, the diaphragm splits letting the vac escape, or the pipes shot.. they run fine on the primary, until you want to move..

Also... how long you had it? what vehicles are you used too?
It only has 78 bhp and they like to pull a few rpm when working hard.. especially a loaded camper, changing down to 3rd at 50 is the norm... not trying to pull 40 in top...

Post by **apples** » 04 Dec 2006, 11:03

hi im vince thanx for responce but i have owned abay that wasent to bad on hills but not to good either but i owened a 83 t25 water cooled 1900 only difference five speed box inever had hill trouble in that another thing is the noisy tappetts not all of the time someone advised me to mix two stroke oil with the petrol and it should do the trick to stop sticking valves im wondering if this advice is good or bad will it help the valves or sticking push rods or could it cuase dammage please help cos iwant to go to winter soltice thanx vince

Post by **toomanytoys** » 04 Dec 2006, 11:19

dont bother with 2 stoke oil.. wont help..
The wbx has hydraulic lifters so the oil quality and grade is important, use only a 15w40 or 15w50 or 20w50 oil... Either VW's own quantum 15w40, or Castrol GTX 15w50... dont bother with semi/fully synth stuff either...

Short trips dont help either.. both of mine will occasionally rattle if only stared and moved a short distance when started again later.. nothing to worry about unless it doesnt go away after a 20 min drive....

Post by **apples** » 05 Dec 2006, 10:10

hi vinc again when i mentioned two stroke oil it was not to replace engine oil it was advised that i mix it with the petrol as it lubricates the valves and hydrulic tappets i was told to do this every six months or so is it adviserble or will it do damage thanx vince

Post by **ghost123uk** » 05 Dec 2006, 10:39

I would deffo check the secondary choke is opening under full throttle / load as this would cause your symptoms.

Re the 2 stroke oil in the fuel - totally unnecessary and won't fix the tappets as they don't come into contact with the fuel ( it won't be a sticky valve or at least VERY unlikely )

Re intermittent noisy tappets.

It is possible the 2 problems are connected if it only loses power when the tappets are making a noise !

It is not good when they are making the noise, as your valves are not opening properly at all ( loss of power ) and the hammering on the tappets / valve stems / camshaft is not good for them.

These hydraulic tappets are prone to not working properly.
In my experience, none of the cures sold in the motoring shops to add to your oil work

Is your oil is OK ( 20-50 for a well used motor, say 80K or higher ) and you have a recent , genuine VW oil filter ?

These vans are more prone to this if they only get occasional use (as a camper say !!).

Sometimes you find that a good long run will free them off.

If not you may have to bite the bullet and get a new set of tappets fitted ( by some one who KNOWS what they are doing !! ) - Not too dear a job actually

Post by **diviy** » 05 Dec 2006, 11:42

get the timing done first if you pm your address i can send u the autodata handbook on cd you have to block up a pipe most garages dont do this had mine done by on garage no differace second garage read up the way to do it massive improvment

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