What's up with the heat????

Post by **MurphyX** » 22 Nov 2006, 16:16

The temperature gauge in my van ('86 1.9DG watercooled) will only start to move from cold if I run the engine parked for several minutes; after 15 minutes it gets to about 1/3rd of the way from the left. And then once I drive off it will work its way all the way to cold again within about 1 minute. The coolant is hot and the pipes all the way up to the radiator are warm also.

Also, I'm only getting cold air from the blower vents. But the windscreen vent air is warm.

This is freaking me out.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 22 Nov 2006, 17:35

Sounds like the thermostat may have stuck open..
and you may have a problem with the heater flap control in you dash.. has it always been like this? have you had the vehicle long?

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 22 Nov 2006, 17:36

yes the stat is open or been removed, the latter is more likely though.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 22 Nov 2006, 17:39

I had a stat stick open.. if you remove the stat, the water doesnt circulate properly and usually boils up!!!!

Post by **MurphyX** » 22 Nov 2006, 17:57

toomanytoys wrote:I had a stat stick open.. if you remove the stat, the water doesnt circulate properly and usually boils up!!!!

Sorry to seem a bit dim here, but isn't that the opposite of what I've described?

Post by **toomanytoys** » 22 Nov 2006, 18:13

You said 15 mins to get it up to temp?
then goes cold when you drive off.... ???

that means the stat is prob stuck open..... as I said...

My reply about boiling if the stat is "removed" is correct.. (and would be opposite) and wasin responce to the prev comment about it poss had been removed.. Never leave a stat out of a wbx.....

It could just be a dodgy sender unit, they are cheap and easy to replace, so swap that first and make sure the connection is good.. if it still does it then it has to be the stat stuck... but no heat means too much water circulating, so I reckon the stat is stuck..

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 22 Nov 2006, 18:49

no no no. if the stat is out or open, the water flows free ALL of the time, not just when its hot. when cold air is being forced through the rad cold water circulates, when your still (no cold air) is being forced through the rad, warm water is allowed to circulate till you move again. if the stat is stuck shut no water flows and boils over(obviously). the reason stats are in in the first place is to allow the engine to work at its optimum temp, a cold engine wears faster.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 23 Nov 2006, 08:40

I have seen 2 wbx with no stat and they constantly did localised boiling in the engine bay.. fitted a new stat and all worked fine.. they were both early systems though and they are not quite the same..

Post by **MurphyX** » 23 Nov 2006, 08:53

OK, so if mine does have a stat, where would it be and what does it look like?

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 23 Nov 2006, 09:05

tana!

Post by **MurphyX** » 23 Nov 2006, 09:33

Hacksawbob wrote:tana!

Oooooo Piccies!

OK, I've got one of them. So, I suppose I have to wop it out and check it?

In order to so do, I'll have to drain the coolant. Which brings me to my next embaressing question:

I've probed around the water jacket drain plug with my fingers (oooo errrr!!!) but I can't tell what it is (bolt/screw/chewing gum) and the Haynes manual is less than helpful (I hate Mr Haynes!).

Post by **toomanytoys** » 23 Nov 2006, 09:34

Suggest you get a workshop manual..
and read up on bleeding the system Before you take it apart.. Have a look in the "WIKI"

Post by **MurphyX** » 23 Nov 2006, 09:44

toomanytoys wrote:Suggest you get a workshop manual..
and read up on bleeding the system Before you take it apart.. Have a look in the "WIKI"

Yeah thanks for that. I've already looked in the WIKI and it doesn't mention how to remove the water jacket drain plug.

I just thought someone might now.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 23 Nov 2006, 09:58

You dont need to drain via the one in the case.. better to drop off one of the hoses in the engine bay...

the core plugs in the case have an allen bolt in it, but the core plug can get corroded and when you try to undo the boly.. it rips the plug apart.. then you have to fit a new one... not easy as the pushrod tubes restrict access.

Post by **MurphyX** » 23 Nov 2006, 10:14