Club 80-90 Forums

Well it starts and runs so a very happy bunny. Still stuff to do before the first test drive but looking forward to it.

I decided that I did not want to have the ecu and associated relays and fuses inside the van ad it may compromise future use of the van. So I decided to mount it between the body and the inner skin of the van. In due course I will have a protective plate made to protect the loom from any road debris...

img]https://i.imgur.com/FPCdS4X.jpg[/img]

Charge cooler system is now full of 50/50 g12+ (its what I had in the garge). Very easy to blead using the subaru rad which has a blead screw and a drain tap. https://i.imgur.com/FAtEkEp.jpg The pump has been mounted just behind the fuel tank, i have installed a relay which recives its swich signal ...

One other consideration I am finding out as I go with the 1.8t engine install is that the heater input and out put are 19mm and 21mm on a longditudal set up. Would the increased presure and lack of flow be an issue when reducing the pipe size to 16mm to fit our vans potentially be an issue?

Neil

Just read the through that lot and as you said there are a lot of opinions. Just to clarify on my doka the rad and the front heater core were replaced with hella ones the heater hoses were replaced with new and the front to backs were new ss. So everything was new. And i had the same issue. Concussi...

hi tim  i had the exact same issue in my doka with a 1.8 20v n/a, i also had the rear heater which had a slight effect depending on how open or closed the valve was, I assume that you have the later block which has a water pump driven by the cam shaft (which is what i had). i chased this issue and c...

Hi Duncan. Thanks for the tip i have already replaced the vacume lines from the n75 valve as I had to move the turbo intake pipe backwards about 55mm to accommodate the engine mount. The n75 is mounted to this intake pipe. https://i.imgur.com/JDDwXCn.jpg I have also mounted the matching subaru charg...

Boost pipes all run to the charge cooler and no a bundle of wires to sort out where they will live in the van. Still lots to do but moving forward none the less.

Hi Neil, looking good! Have a look at the transverse engine intake manifold as it should reduce the height a fair bit. More plumbing though! Regards Duncan. The scrap yard was closed today which was anoying so no manifolds to play with with. I went to see a friend who seam welded the exhaust j pipe...

Made a start on the exhaust ths everning using an old (early) jx system that I had in the garage. And the uses of a 60mm flexy that I sourced during the week.. https://i.imgur.com/c7nlrx1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/oacz2dp.jpg I am hoping that the jx silencer will work and keep the sound down. Time wil...

So as the syncro bars done solve the hatch issue I have switched them back to the 2wd bar this has raised the engine but will solve another issue of the gear box mount not needing to be lowered. So the engine and the gear box are now sitting at the standard diesle location. I also made some progress...

The photo is of the diesel requirement thats spot welded to the rear crossmember.



Neil