Club 80-90 Forums

No drilling is required and you can, I believe, still get the (the English name fails me) rubber boot that goes between the door and the body.

I used 4 mm ply coated with epoxy resin.

I had that set up on an ADY engine out of a Sharan, it was a right a*** to get off.

Can be fixed with a bit of welding.

GTi it.

Stick a Mk 3 golf 2,0l 8v in, it's not an expensive conversion.

Was the gear stick/linkage changed to the 5-speed setup when the gearbox was swapped? If not this is no doubt why it's a pig to drive as the 'gate' is different on a 4-speed, so it'll work but it's not ideal. If it was changed then it's just a case of getting used to it, it'll become second nature ...

Google is your friend.........try it, you may like it.

ZsZ wrote:should be good

Cheers dude.

Okay, I now have an Aidan Talbot AAP gearbox in my camper.
The change rods are the one that worked fine with the 3H box.

Can I still use these rods or do I need a different rear rod?

Or does it just need setting up correctly?

Thanks
Paul

I've used a starter battery for years without any problems.
As AngeloEvs say don't totally discharge them - if you do and they won't recover take it back and get it swapped under warranty

Don't forget that the fuel filter is after the pump.
The bigger feed makes it easier for the pump to provide the required pressure.

It works fine so don't be too concerned.

Autoglym HD wax does it for me.

R0B wrote:Can I ask paul. Why are you ditching power steering?

I just don't like the lack of feel. I much prefer the direct feedback that I had with the manual set up.

Mocki wrote:The uprights are different, the power steering has less lock than manual .
You shouldn’t need to change Paul .
Going the other way , manual to power I think maybe it’s to stop the rack going past the stop maybe ?

Cheers Steve.