Club 80-90 Forums

if you installed it wrong, the reg lettering would be reversed and not read correctly.??

Work back from the fault, not towards it. 

bridge main terminal to solenoid (test)
jump lead from chassi to gearbox (test)
jump lead from batt to main terminal (test)
and so on

there should only be two wires at the starter, can;t go wrong. a fat one to the solenoid main input and a thin one to the solenoid actuation, have you done something more to complicate things as its not clear why your having a problem,

cobblers wrote: ↑27 Sep 2025, 21:12  it stops your heater making whistling noises as you drive at speed 

Not a problem fo most of us then 

did mine and it was glued, more hassle than difficult. mine had some clips too.

 

the low oil presure switch should work without any "option" being required

Same ordr I have, although I may have to check my spacing. I am plannign to do away with the old DOPS and re-engineer it, but I have the connector board anyway if I were to use the old style. 

should be pin 13 on the edge connector, will go to a 470ohm resistor, cathode of led and the annode is +12v ignition.

Will need to look at my schematic. have you checked high and low are the right way round.

 

Did they provide the circuit schematic, or the pcb design file ( not the gerber files ).

Hot melt glue on the socket will hold it in place

just leaver the box header off the board and turn it 180

would have to see the other end. mine should be oriented the same.

As per other thread, I may now have a dimensionally accurate rev counter backing.

I am still very busy and any vehicular tinkering is very limited to "must do" at present. Maisie goes for MOT retest on Friday which is priority getting her sorted.

Rob

Pauld wrote: ↑06 Sep 2025, 18:57 Thanks all for the information . So i've wired it in red to + 2 brown to - and taped of the blue and grey light one . but the 15 amp fuse keeps blowing .
Any Ideas ?
Many Thanks.

Sounds like you did it right , pronbaly poor wuality USB socket