Club 80-90 Forums

Dirt does get into these areas, it may also be advisable to remove the covering over the sliding channel to get better access, and to view the areas around the running channel as they are prone to rot.

Often thought about learning welding myself, if anything to save some money especially for MOT failure issues where you have to rely on a third party to carry it out.  Presume because of the heat they use do they require a dedicated power source or can they be connected to a residential power source...

Could be for some sort of awning, did it come with one

Well done James, watching this and the other videos gives me guidance and confidence to have a go myself.

Mine are cloth, which I cover with a wooden bead seat covering, helps for air circulating and quite comfortable.

Unfamiliar with that type of fitment so cannot offer much guidance.  Maybe worth removing it too have a better look and see if it can be repaired.  I would take care though due to plumbing issues and disconnect battery also.  Somebody on this forum must have the same fitment so should offer more adv...

I dont have a fan there but only in the dashboard, sounds as if the blades have stuck and the motor may have burnt out trying to rotate them.

Thanks will give it a go with new or repaired switch.

Thanks again, am i correct in thinking that this is a case of connection in parallel or series, vaguely remember this from school days, must admit electrics even the basics are a bit of a minefield sometimes.

Thanks, the only courtesy light I have is above the drivers side, should there also be one above the passengers side.  Do not understand reply ref removing working light.

Thanks, ill start with fitting a new switch and go from there.

Resurrecting this for my own query, passenger side door has a non working cab light switch but does have a wire not connected to the switch, this wire is brown and is live showing 12.5v via a test using a multi meter. But when I open the drivers door which does activate the light the passenger side ...

Unsure if this is help full but does it only conk out whilst underload, does it have the same symptoms after leaving it stationary and idling for a while.

Could be that the fridge was rigged up to run off your leisure battery, I tried this once and the lead connecting them became very hot, suspect it is not designed for this as the fridge draws to much current, and would probably drain the leisure battery in no time at all, unless it is somehow trickl...

No need to swear.